Lukač, CROATIA: Boarding Over Borders.

I managed two new feats today... one: my first time in Croatia, and two: my first time skateboarding across an international border. Apparently, not only is that a first for me, but it was the first time anyone at the border crossing had witnessed someone cross the bridge, and exit the European Union on a longboard.


In fact, the Hungarian Border Guard didn't want to let me leave the country on my skateboard. Although he didn't speak a word of English (and I understand very little Hungarian), I could tell he wasn't impressed by my efforts when he called the immigration office for verification of my visa. He talked for a while, and kept looking at my passport and then back at me with his visual interrogation. I didn't catch much of his conversation but I did hear him say gördesza (skateboard) as he continued his mean-mugging. Eventually, and seemingly reluctantly, he stamped my passport and I headed over the River Drava, arriving at the Croatia Border Patrol.

Conversely, the kind woman at the Croatian State Line found it entertaining that I was traveling by skateboard and she was happy to welcome me into her country. She spoke perfect English and we joked about it for a bit before she opened the big gate for me to skate through. It was refreshing to feel welcome by the authorities.

Once I got into Croatia, I just explored the village streets... no agenda and no checklist of sights to see, just scoping it out... but enjoying the ride nonetheless. Lukač isn't any different than the Hungarian countryside villages, but I was happy to enjoy the peaceful sunny day to myself... well, all was peaceful until I got a little too close to this guys' rooster farm and got chased all the way down the street (about 200 meters) by the family dog. It was a smaller dog, but still got my adrenaline going...

I had no idea what this sign read when I took the photo (of course)... I simply liked the colours and the print... but, when I got home and looked it up with Google Translate, I decided I like it even more now. It reads, "Sale: pig fat and cow reactive." Classic.

I plan to return to Croatia sometime in the coming months as summer approaches. It seems to be one of the hottest tourist destinations among Europeans and I am dying to get to Plitvice Lakes National Park near the coast to see what all the chatter is about (said to be the most beautiful lake in the world). So, the Croatia adventures have just begun...

Disznóvágás: A Coutryside Custom.

I wouldn't be living the real Hungarian life if I didn't dig a little... and sometimes, to discover the authentic traditions, I've got to trust the locals to show me the lay of the land (Magyar föld). This weekend, that meant getting dirty and experiencing something I've never even imagined I'd ever be part of... driving to the countryside to partake in a pig slaughter.




Since I arrived in early August, I have made it publicly-known that I am interested in learning about, seeing, and participating in all things Hungarian. I am only here for one year, and I want to experience true Eastern Europe... the people, the culture, the traditions, etc. My students keep it real, making me stand by my words... and, when two of my seniors approached me with this opportunity, I couldn't refuse. To be honest, I was sick from the notion alone, and couldn't believe I signed up for it... but there was something about the pig killing that interested me, something convinced me it was a must-see... and if I was going to see it, why not be part of it?

The Disznóvágás was in a countryside village called Somgogysárd. Peti and Máté, two of my favourite students (and recent champions of Diák Hét: Students Week as part of the 12A class) celebrate the long-standing family tradition at their grandparents farm every winter. The twins have been part of this day since they were two-years old, and have grown to look forward to the family gathering each year. I was honoured that they included me in their family heritage.

I got picked up just after six in the morning, and before seven, I had met the extended Tárkányi Family, and was engaging in the first part of the annual ritual... drinking pálinka, of course. Everyone takes part, in the drinking and in the work... from the ninety-five year-old great grandmother to the youngest of the children. Everyone has a role; the women were busy prepping, cooking, and serving up booze, while the men were outside herding the drift. Before the sun came up, we had two pigs down but still the majority of the work ahead of us...

There is no way I can write (in words) or show (with photos) what I experienced on Saturday... but I'm glad I did it. I have no interest in killing animals; I have never been hunting before and I don't even care much for fishing... but for some reason, I thought it was right that I finally saw the process for myself. Ever since seeing Food Inc. a few years back, I have thought a lot about what I eat and where it comes from. I was curious. Now, I'm still curious, but I'm happy to have gained real experience to work into my deliberation.

By the end of the morning, I was covered in mud and blood, buzzed on pálinka and forralt bor, and had a head-full of new perspective. We took a break for lunch, and it was delicious! Peti and Máté's mother made gulyás with fresh pork (the freshest pork I'll ever eat), and the women also prepared vese és agyvelő (you may or may not want to know what this is, so I'll leave it in Hungarian and you can look it up if you are truly curious and have a strong stomach), potatoes, etc. It was quite the feast and of course was followed with some delicious cakes and desserts (like any Hungarian meal).

In an effort to keep things mild, I withheld the finer details and bypassed the vivid photos... But, all in all, it was a powerful learning experience! Máté and Peti have the kindest family and they really appreciated my participation. I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to take part of such a special custom with such great people... we had a lot of laughs and enjoyed the spirit of the gathering, the company and the teamwork.

Krakow, POLAND: Ringing in the New Year.

On the heels of a ten-day stint with my pops, I was naturally a bit bleary, but something told me it was a good idea to keep pushing... so, I booked a trip to Poland for the last few days of the year! I took off directly from Budapest (without going home first), on a solo mission to discover what the Poles have up their sleeves for the new year's celebration...

I flew into Warsaw and spent my first day there. The capital of Poland is big, but really not that cool. It's probably not fair to judge a city in six hours, but on first-impression, I just wasn't too excited about Warsaw. About eighty-five percent of the city was wiped out in WWII, and the communist-style reconstruction is less-than interesting. Of course, the historic Old Town is worth a visit... except if going on the twenty-ninth day of December, expect the weather to be absolutely bitter (reminiscent of the Massena, NY chill).

Nonetheless, I was able to find a kind little Polish man cooking up pierogies in the central market square in Old Town... and he made my day! I learned the perfect compliment to authentic pierogies on a frigid day is Barszcz Czerwony (Polish beetroot soup)... amazing!











Now... Kraków... wow! I flew into Katowice Wednesday afternoon and took a bus to Kraków a few hours later... and it didn't take me but a few steps off the bus to realize Kraków is rad! Still bitter cold, but there's a different feeling in the air... a city with more life and variety and charm. I was immediately pleased with my decision to spend my time here and ready to go exploring. My hostel was a simple walk from the bus station, right in the city centre, so I stopped in to drop off my pack and get my bearings. The girls at the Zodiakus Hostel are great; they were happy to show me around and point out the must-sees and must-dos for my four-day stay.

With so much on the list, I didn't have time for (or interest in) sleep, so I met the dudes staying in my room and we hit the town right away. The guys are from Brazil (São Paulo and Rio), but are currently living in Lyon, France as engineering students. We get along great; they bring the party and I bring the adventure... so, we filled our three nights with plenty of fun.






Lucky for me, one of the Brazilians (Moises) has some Polish connections from his previous studies in Germany... and, so I met his old flatmate Adam. Adam is originally from Poland and has been living in Kraków for years. He is an amazing host and gave me the inside perspective on Kraków, Polish people, and the Polish way of life. His friends were also very welcoming and I'm really grateful for my time with them. They took us to a mix of clubs and house parties, giving me the roundup of Kraków nightlife... Turns out they're on my kind of schedule; I only got back to the hostel one evening / morning while it was still dark. Spent the wee hours in a some cool places and met a lot of great people (Josefin and Maja from Uppsala, Francesco from Sienna, Mihailo and Andjela from Belgrade, and a whole lot of wonderful Poles!)...

During the days, I took off solo, trying to see as much as I could. On the first day, I explored the Main Market Square, the largest medieval town square in Europe! I went to the International Cultural Gallery to see an exhibit, British Bohemia: The Bloomsbury Circle of Virginia Woolf. Then, I got lost in the park for a while (on purpose) and finally found my way back to the Barbican at the edge of the Old Town.

On the morning of New Years Eve, I did some hiking around Wawel Hill and realized that the gothic Wawel Castle is really a whole courtyard full of structures (towers, chambers, exhibitions, dens, etc.)... it's all pretty impressive! From there, I spent some time in the Jewish Ghetto, Kazimierz. I really dig learning about the history of this district (where Schindler's List was filmed)... navigating through the labyrinthine streets and popping in and out of the underground bars, cafés, and galleries.

Last night, we ended up back in Kazimierz at an exclusive New Years Eve party with Adam and his friends. We had reservations for the back room of this typical underground restaurant in a beautiful brick-lined banquet room... I only regret not taking photos.

At around eleven, we left the underground party for the highly-anticipated and hugely-hyped Market Square celebration. Sure enough, it was outta-sight... thousands of people, live entertainment (Kelis, and American R&B artist headlined), and huge fireworks at midnight. It was quite the party (they call it Wow Night)... Na Zdrowié!

Today is my last day in Kraków, but the first day of a new year. The only thing open on New Years Day is the church, of course... the magnificent St. Mary's Basilica... what an amazing last thing to see before leaving town!