Tallinn, ESTONIA: The Hidden Treasure.

Wow! Visiting eight countries in eleven days can blur the ethos of the cities, but there is one city that will stand out as my favourite from this tour: Tallinn. Tallinn has an old-world look with cutting-edge freshness and the art and culture scene is taking off! It's obviously Europe's hidden treasure; I'm just happy to uncover it for myself...

Situated in the northeast corner of the Baltic Sea, Estonia is just a couple hours by ferry from Helsinki. We took the bright and early, ride-in-style, across the Gulf of Finland... arrived at 9:00 and hit the town right away! This is the first shoppe I saw... seems awfully convenient...



On the ferry ride over, I scanned the net for contemporary art spots in Tallinn (as I do for every city I visit)... I've found that digging up the arts scene and meeting the locals are the best ways for me to get the most out of a city. For the rest of the trip, I made it a point to head out on my own each day to hit these marks. Kent and Emily make great travel partners; especially because they understand my wandering spirit and know there is no way to repress it... so, they take off doing their thing and leave me to do mine. They dig the historical peripheral and I want to learn from the random meetings of interesting people in interesting places. Anyhow, it's great how we can appreciate each other's interests / learning styles and it makes for pretty interesting exchanges each night when we meet up for supper.

So, in my quest to seek contemporary art in Tallinn, I stumbled upon the Sally Stuudio: a non-profit organization with a mission in perfect parallel to my perspective on art education! Their purpose: "to educate young people to become future competent creators and consumers of art and to promote a better understanding of art amongst adults." It's utopian, but it's simple. I asked around and finally found someone to lead me to this little schoolhouse studio off the main drag in old-town.

I walked in and introduced myself, expressing my appreciation for their vision. It's so important to help young people understand the presence of contemporary art in our modern world and to open doors for them to see the possibilities to express themselves in it! And, the people at the Sally Art School get it. It's great. They showed me around and gave me some information on some really rad programmes they're organizing in conjunction with Tallinn 2011: The European Capital of Culture! The newest initiative is called Eksperimenta!: "application of art to education of young people and to their development into creative, critically thinking and responsible persons and citizens." This is a page from a book that one of the kids made. I think it's brilliant.

In my one day in Tallinn, I discovered several creative outlets for young artists... totally refreshing! This is an after-school school for pottery and sculpture. I just love that people understand the importance of art education in Tallinn, and furthermore the importance of encouraging creative minds to grow... So, it makes sense... European Culture Capital 2010 is Pécs (Hungary), 2011 is Tallinn (Estonia).

So, Estonia... Eastern Europe? No way. Estonia, the most northern of the Baltic States, may geographically sit in the eastern region of the continent... but it's a world apart socially. Far beyond obvious differences that suggest cultural maturity (like the fact that everyone speaks English), I learned that Estonia is a European leader in Information Technology... people pay for tram tickets and parking validation with text messages, the city is covered with free WiFi, and is the birthplace of Skype!









It didn't matter that I was waking up at 4:40 the next morning to catch a flight to Riga... I had to go out and check out Tallinn's evening style... Kent and Emily headed back to the hotel and I found a joint on the edge of the old town called the Music Bar to hang for a while. I had a drink, talked with some Tuesday-night locals, kicked it in the big red velvet chairs, and watched a Moby video (from Glastonbury)... pretty chill way to close a good day in great city... See you soon Tallinn...

Helsinki, FINLAND: Scandinavian Introduction.

Waking up in Budapest at 3:31... I wonder why I ever went to sleep... or did I? We hopped in the cab, arrived at the airport, checked-in for the flight, boarded the plane, and hit the friendly skies all before sunrise... next stop is Finland: home of Teppo Numminen and the Lingonberries (sounds like a band name, eh?).

As we stepped off the plane in Turku, we were greeted by cool air with a crisp breeze, gloomy skies with a clean landscape. In fact everything in Turku was clean and well-kept. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to explore the city, as we had to hop on the train for Helsinki within the hour... so we just made a quick walk through the city centre on our way to the train station and we pushed on to Helsinki. The train was immaculate (cleanest train ever, even in second class where we sat). And, when the snack cart came through, I couldn't hold back... there was a retro-designed candy box calling my name. I learned that it a Finnish specialty called Salmiak: a strange variety of spicy salty licorice root... totally strange, but I'm a sucker for candy, especially that of exotic international distinction...

Anyway, Helsinki... We arrived in the late morning and had only the day to explore, but we got around quite a bit. Unfortunately I couldn't visit the Kiasma (Contemporary Art Museum), because it was Monday... but I found Helsinki pretty freaking cool anyway...




I went with Kent and Emily to check out Suomenlinna: a maritime fortress located off the coast. We took a ferry to the island and had a hike around the rocky grounds, checking out what it had to offer. After all, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so it had to be worth checking out. I think there would be a bit more to enjoy in the summer months, as many of the artist studios were closed and locals were hiding out during our cold and windy afternoon visit.

Back to the mainland... plenty of walking (with our packs all day). I dig it though; when I have my backpack on and I'm cruising around from place to place freely, I feel like a bonafide traveler; it's a part of me. This is the beautiful Lutheran Cathedral in the center square.



In addition to the sites of the city, I wanted to check out the famous Helsinki Design District... Of course, being that it was Monday, I missed out on a bunch of the galleries and regular exhibits, but I was able to check out a bit of the scene anyway. Helsinki was chosen to be the World Design Capital for 2012.


Eventually we met up with Mari, a new friend we made on CouchSurfing, and had the best supper of the tour! We went to an authentic Finnish joint called Juttutupa. I had the most incredible Scandinavian meatballs (in brandy sauce with potatoes and beet roots)... totally worth the entire trip to Finland! Mari was a great host. Not only did she find the hottest spot in town to dine; she put us up for the night and helped us navigate the local transport, etc. so we could find our way into town, around town, and back out again...

Finland was cool. I'll go back, maybe when I make my way into Russia... but for now, on to Estonia...

Transylvania, ROMANIA: Vampire Weekend.

Wow. Never did I think I'd be spending Halloween at Dracula's Bran Castle on Halloween... but as life unfolds it's capricious plans for me, this is precisely how I celebrated Halloween 2010. Kent, Emily, and I headed out on a weekend roadtrip to kick off a ten-day trick of Eastern and Central Europe. Our destination was Brasov, but we took the long and winding road from Debrecen (Hungary) through Transylvania... partly to experience the true eastern (European) culture of Romania, but mostly because our Google Maps route took us on the fourteen-hour scenic route...

Regardless, I developed great anticipation of Brasov... not really knowing what to expect, I was stoked for the Halloween enigma... There is no doubt about it, the road to Brasov was a quintessential picture of Eastern Europe: donkey drawn buggies, shoddy roads, a myriad of hitchhikers, wild dogs, roadside chickens, and open-field fires... it was amazing! In order to understand the people, the culture, the politics, the commerce, the art, etc... I had to visit the countryside. We stopped in a town called Zalău for lunch... wow, talk about an what an eye-opener... (I'll have to expand on this later)

And, when we arrived in Brasov, I realized it was worth the journey. This central Romanian city is beautiful... from the landscape to the architecture to the people! The main square was quite a site... the Black Church was cool too...






Civilization seemed a bit more familiar in Brasov; we even came across some kids dressed in Halloween costumes...









In the evening we walked up to the base of Tampa Hill to have a look over the city... here are our ghosts creeping across the fields at dusk. Of course, I couldn't be satisfied with the spot I had, and needed to hike the hill... Emily and Kent went back into the town and I headed up Tampa Hill just as the sun disappeared... I suppose it was just me being me, but I had to exhaust myself running uphill for a while before I would feel accomplished. The view was blocked by trees all the way up, but I finally found a tree to sit in for a while and admire the stars and waning luna. It was worth it; it always is.

We stayed at a killer Bed & Breakfast joint called Pensiunea Hanna... and had the sweetest hosts ever.
















We spent most of the next morning in the outskirts of Brasov, at Bran Castle. I learned a bit about Vlad Dracul (Vlad the Impaler), also known as Drăculea... about the legend, his resistance against the Ottoman Empire, and about his cruel and unusual punishments he served his enemies... it's actually quite disturbing, and it was a bit eerie roaming his 'haunt.'









On the way back into the city, we stopped off the main road to explore some woods... hiking in Brasov Poiana was a pretty good high, but I found myself thinking of Luna the whole time... Autumn hikes just aren't as cool without my pup by my side... no matter where I am.

I am a vampire... the only garlic-loving vampire in Transylvania.





Of all the street musicians we saw this week, there was one particularly notable group: Trubadurii din Transilvania... authentic Brasov troubadours...

EC Cunningham: Incessant Inspiration.

This afternoon I learned some terribly heavy news, something that hit my heart with shock and sadness... a great hero to myself and many, EC Cunningham, passed away one month ago today. I honestly don't know how to react; it came so unexpectedly amidst the many distractions and developments of concurrent life in Hungary. I know that I fall out-of-the-loop with the day-to-day in Denver, but just hearing this affective story now makes me feel so disconnected.

EC was an incredible inspiration, and will always live in spirit, continuing to inspire me for the rest of my life. He was a beloved friend, a wonderful father, a loving husband, a devoted teacher, an exceptional artist, and one of the greatest mentors I have ever learned from. EC changed people's lives. He has helped me become a better artist, a better teacher, and better person.

My friendship with EC was special and will always enrich my life. He invited me to Vicious Dog (his printmaking studio at Metropolitan State College of Denver) many weekends... we would work on new print processes together, just him and I... and he would show me ways I could bring contemporary printmaking into Studio 23 (my studio at Wheat Ridge High School). He did it all out of the kindness of his heart... for his love of art... and for his love of teaching.

I met EC five years ago, when I had the honour of teaching art to his son Kevin, one of my all-time favourite students. Kevin is an incredible man himself... now in his third year at Kansas State, studying landscape design; he will always benefit from the strong relationship he had with his father and years of positive influence he gained. I send my warmest and fullest love to Kevin and his mother Allison in these toughest days... I know they are strong and will carry on to appreciate the impact EC had on them as they heal from today forward.

Life can be so fragile and I'm rarely reminded of this. It will take some time, but I know the sadness of loss will turn into a celebration of his spirit... I am so thankful to have known him, worked with him, and learn so much from him. We'll always love and miss you EC; thank you for your genuine heart.

Flux Capacitors, Fireballs, and Modern Life...

An obvious cult classic, and for all the right reasons... Back to the Future premiered 1985 October 26. I was living in Yonkers, New York, the oldest of three children (then), and had just celebrated my fifth birthday... Fast forward twenty-five years: I am living in Kaposvár, Hungary, the oldest of four children (Joey was born in eighty-seven) and just celebrated my thirtieth birthday...

Vissza A Jövöbe clearly ranks among the top of my favourite films of all time... it changed my life. McFly is an inspiration; I mean the dude rides his skate in the rain and never has any trouble skitching around town. And, Doc Brown... good for you bro! You created a time machine into a DeLorean... now that's function and style! Thanks to Hanna for letting me borrow the film.

Trying to keep it simple... Tonight was the first time since I moved to Hungary that I attempted to turn on the television (so I could watch the film)... however, I couldn't get the DVD player to work so I watched it on my laptop anyway. I didn't find the need for the air conditioner this summer and I still haven't fired up the heat in my flat. And, until tonight... never used the microwave. Whoa, microwave popcorn is strange but cool. Sometimes I feel like a dinosaur, but there's just something about microwaves that seem unnatural. I think I'll stick to the OG stove.

I had my first visitors come to Kaposvár this weekend. It was good to actually be in Kaposvár for the entire weekend... hmmm... maybe the first since I arrived in August. A few of the Fulbright gang came to check out life in the city of fountains / town of painters / coolest city in Central Europe: Kaposvár. David, Stephanie, and the three girls came from Barcs and Kent made the long haul from Debrecen. It was great to see them. True to Scaglione Family form, I cooked a legitimate Italian meal for everyone... We made our way around town, checking out Berzsenyi Park, Kossuth Square, the many fountains, the 1956 Hungarian Revolution Memorial (appropriately timed for the National Holiday on 23 October), and a whole lot more...

I finally went to my first European Football match... a home game: Rákóczi (Kaposvár) vs. Honvéd (Budapest)... the game was humdrum (ending in a 0-0 draw) but there was plenty of excitement at the stadium! Some fans from Budapest through explosives on the field (at our goalkeeper) during play, and the riot police had to come and dismiss the entire Honvéd fan section... with pepper spray and arms. Apparently this came as no big surprise to the football fans, and it has come to be expected from the visiting Budapest fans. The stadium was certainly well-equipped and prepared for such behaviour, so I assume it's standard business.

Ah, and in the Western World, it's so refreshing to see a couple new teams duking it out for the MLB World Series rings this year... I'm just relieved that I don't have to stay up all morning (games get done around 5:30am here) rooting against the Yankees or the Phillies... instead I'll pull for the NL team, the bearded, the kids... go Giants!

Street sweeping... Ah, yes, the one thing everyone leaves the house for in Hungary... to sweep their sidewalk! I swear I've never seen so many people out in Kaposvár. These are some photos I snapped with my phone just walking around town for two days... and I could've taken more! If there's a single leaf on the sidewalk, it must be swept... not by law, but by cultural standards. People will go out and sweep the leaves from the sidewalk everyday (or multiple times a day) if that's what it takes to keep a clean walkway...

Talk about modern life... check out the mail truck... so simple, so green.






On deck: I'm heading out on a Eastern Europe trick Thursday... ten days / seven NEW countries... it's gonna be a whirlwind tour, but I'm stoked! Transylvania for Halloween (Romania), The Baltics (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania), and Scandinavia (Finland, Denmark, Sweden)...