Wondering and Wandering.

A Breath Of The Good Air: Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA

2011-11-20T18:53:00.000-08:00

I had an incredible opportunity to travel to South America over my autumn holiday... and, though I don't have time for the writing (now), I wanted to post some photos in the meantime. It was great to hang with my homeboy Nick in his city... visiting all of the barrios and seeing the hot spots from a local perspective. Here is a snapshot of what I experienced...

Coming to America: The Bittersweet Return.

2011-08-14T11:58:00.000-07:00

So, I'm back in the USA... and after two weeks, I'm still having a difficult time adjusting to the lifestyle of stateside being. Of course, life here now isn't much different from life here before... it's just a world of contrast from my recent life in Europe! I had been warned about this reverse culture shock phenomenon... but it seemed kind of weird that I might actually feel more uncomfortable here, in the country where I've spent almost my entire life, than in Hungary, a place I've never even visited. Sure enough, it's real.

One year ago, when I left the States, I was so eager to get to Europe... to start my residence, to meet the people, to pick up on culture, language, cuisine... I just wanted to embrace anything and everything new. I wasn't nervous or scared... not a bit... just excited. However, coming back to the States... I realized that I wasn't really that excited to return. Even though I love my life in the States and there are plenty of amazing things to regain with the American return, I simply didn't have my fill of the European experience.

I spent my last month in Europe on a solo backpacking expedition through Spain and Portugal (ambling briefly into Morocco and Andorra)... and it (literally) changed my life. It's going to take a lot of time and extensive reflection to get it out in words... and even then, only pieces will emerge. Flying into Barcelona with an over-sized backpack and a skateboard, with no place to go and a month to explore, was just the freedom I'd been seeking... Being able to finally visit the places I've always dreamed of, on my own time and my own dime, was thoroughly liberating. Planes, trains, automobiles, buses, ferries, hitchhiking, skateboarding... whatever fit the time, place, and mood.

I've been wrangling with my notes and ideas from the backpacking trip, and just can't seem to put it in blog speak... so, maybe stories will emerge sometime (here on WAW), but maybe that piece of the year will have to be the kind of thing that only emerges in person, over a latte or glass of wine. For now, I'll focus a few words on the return to the States...

So, when I landed in Rochester, NY (via Frankfurt and Newark), I had the ultimate homecoming acceptance... I was greeted by Sarah, Bryan, and at last: LUNA! My beautiful Hungarian Vizsla was there at the terminal with a bright green sign around her neck "Welcome Home Daddy"... and showered me with a million kisses.

I spent a few days in Rochester, catching up with great friends, familiar stomping grounds, and my best pal Luna. We took a trip to the Public Market, several runs to Wegman's, some hiking, some paddling, some Abbott's custard eating, and some game playing.

Then, I was off to Cape Cod for the week... time to catch up with my family and get in some lasting beach time before I landlocked myself up for a while... I caught three CCBL games... and, of course, rooted for blue (my pops, the umpire) every game. I don't know if I absolutely love Cape Cod, but I definitely love the Cape Cod Baseball League (the premier wooden bat league in the USA) and think that it is the essence of the Cape! I was just stoked to hang with my cousins, whom I rarely see.

We beached, antiqued, and played baseball by day... and the whole family united to eat (same as it ever was) and play games by night... I even cooked a big Hungarian meal for everyone (paprikás csirke, complete with pálinka, of course) with the help of my awesome Aunt Mar.

When I finally returned to the great state of sun and mountains and all things beautiful (Colorado, naturally...), I was once again blown away by the artistry and attraction of the Rockies and gorgeous sunset on the first night. However, when I got back to my house... I came home to clogged drains, an overgrown and weeded dried-out dirt lawn, a half-centimeter grease layer covering my stove-top, multiple unpaid bills, and a nasty note nailed to the middle of my wall. Unfortunately, my Hungarian mate didn't stand up to her end of the bargain... More than anything, it just makes me sad to think of all the incredible people I met in Hungary and the rest of Europe that would've really made the most of an exchange opportunity like this... a chance to live and breathe American life for a year... just as I valued everyday I spent abroad, imbibing each opportunity I met. It's sad. I will leave it at that.

O n Monday (my first night home), my sister Krissie came to cook me a wonderful salmon dinner and chase away the evil spirits with sage... On Tuesday, I walked down to Coors Field and sat twelve rows behind the plate for the Rocks and Phils with Patrick. On Wednesday, I hiked the hill behind Red Rocks with Joey and Luna for Primus and the Flaming Lips covering Dark Side of the Moon. On Thursday, I returned to Red Rocks and joined a slew of Denver Family for a hot My Morning Jacket show. On Friday, I had a wonderful dinner with the Musser's and then skated down to the First Friday Art Walk on Santa Fe (always an entertaining evening; the union of hipsters and homeless celebrating the arts and hilariousness) with Shawn. On Saturday, I stopped by the Denver Art Museum for the resident-free First Saturday viewing. On Sunday, I went back down to Coors Field with my little homeboys Haakon, Cohen, and Cavin. And, then, on Tuesday morning, I was off to Lake Tahoe! I spent three days on the ever gorgeous Lake Tahoe on the California / Nevada state line... catching up with some friends from the Bay area, hustling some original prints, and catching a pair of rippin' Phish shows! I got back Friday and... Saturday was the Vans Sample Sale Event at Shawn's and then last night I went to see Pretty Lights at Red Rocks... not a bad first couple weeks.

Things I miss: stress-free life, low-fare airlines, not waking up to an alarm clock, no-pressure hanging out at cafés and restaurants, eating out without guilt or gouging my wallet.

Things I don't miss: dealing with my exchange partner and her unreasonable requests / demands / complaints, paying for public restrooms, paying for water in restaurants, maladroitly hunting for healthy food.

The Offbeat: Set Three.

2011-06-10T04:20:00.000-07:00

Undoubtedly, I am far too far behind on my blog entries... but I haven't stopped journaling, and I still intend to backlog my online posts... little by little. So, here is another installment of The Offbeat, outlining some simple differences I experience between the Hungarian way-of-life and my Stateside norms...

So, it seems like most people I've met (outside the States) just don't 'get' baseball. Of course, being a player, a coach, and a fan since before I could walk, I feel like their missing out on the greatest game in the world. But, to their defense, they don't 'get' it because they don't know it. They've never really been exposed to the sport and don't realize the complexity and strategies involved. I can see how it would seem boring without knowing the sophistication of the sport. So... I thought I'd introduce my students to the American Pastime.

To my surprise, they were incredibly interested... they were excited to learn the rules, the slang, and the style of baseball! It was also a great way to familiarize English-language learners with many everyday idioms we use that derive from baseball... like out of left field, off-base, and three strikes and you're out.

After spending a few lessons (in class) explaining the ins and outs, we took it to the field and played (likely) the first game of baseball ever in Kaposvár. They came primed with eye-black (well, black eye-liner and oil pastels), ball caps, and post-game beers. We had a blast, but as you can see from the photos, they still have a lot to learn... ha, they're still not the most disciplined hitters.

Next... the Hungarian version of high school graduation is a ceremony called balagás. While it's still a commencement celebration, the traditions are quite different than I am used to. First of all, the ceremony is held in the school... and it consists of all of the school-leaving (graduating) classes promenading through the classrooms singing songs and offering their final farewells. The classrooms are decorated by each of the other (non-graduating) classes and are welcomed by the students of the respective classes... all dressed in the formal uniform, etc.

I reckon they call the ceremony the balagás because it consists of plenty of bawling... parents, teachers, and the students alike; everyone's crying. It's definitely a bit more somber and serious than the cap and gown party I'm used to... but it's dignified atmosphere gave me a great perspective on how the Hungarians celebrate graduation.

And, certainly unique to Hungarian convention... is the post-balagás tradition of szerenád... a national custom in which the school-leaving classes visit the homes of (some of) their teachers, singing songs at their doorstep and then being invited in the homes to tell stories and drink. I mean, talk about something that would never fly in the States... this little tradition is totally acceptable and carried on by even the most respected veteran teachers at the school. Anyway, I felt honoured that 13E came to serenade me, and had a great night of dancing, laughing, and even playing some typical American games.

Things I miss: Luna, living across the street from a big beautiful park, mountains, Kombucha, Larabars, smoke-free bars, recycling, and baseball.

Things I don't miss: feeling guilty about eating dessert with every meal, paying $100 monthly for my cell phone bill, and living twenty hours (drive) from the ocean.

Infinite Italy: Milan > Bologna > Florence > Pisa.

2011-05-10T06:24:00.000-07:00

From the Galleria d'Arte Moderna, Piazza Del Scala, the Duomo, the Palazzo Realle (Royal Palace), the Navigli District, Museo del Novecento, Cadorna, Parco Sempione, the canals, apertivos, and luxurious fashion of Milan... to Protello, the San Francesco Cathedral late-night stooping, gramigna at Fantoni Trattoria, Amaro Del Capo at DeMarchi's, Italian lessons with Leone, Via Rizzoli, San Petronio Basilica, the 'twin' towers, Manifattura Delle Arti, MAMBO: Contemporary Art Museum, the Cineteca, Gamesh Music Club, Tamburini, CouchSurfing parties, and university life (home of the oldest university in the world) of Bologna... to the Galleria Degli Uffizi, Pino's Salumeria Verdi, bi-daily gelato, secret bakeries, outdoor concerts, all-nighters, the Duomo, Galleria d'Arte Contemporanea, Galleria Dell'Academia, Michelangelo's 'David,' Ponte Vecchio, the River Arno, Piazza della Signoria, Santa Croce, and the Medicci Chapels of Florence... to the leaning tower of Pisa...
my fourth tour of Italy was just as incredible as the past visits!

And, as fulfilling as it is to go to Italy, I am already looking forward to my return... Perhaps I won't be totally satisfied until I have a chance to live there for a while... to endure and melt into the lifestyle!

These are (some of the) photos from my recent motherland roundabout...

Milano.

Bologna.

Firenze.

Pisa.

Juxtaposed Harmony: Tallinn, ESTONIA.

2011-04-29T11:45:00.000-07:00

When I first visited the Baltics in the fall, I immediately fell for the charm of Tallinn and knew it was only a matter of time before I would return. Fate found me cruising the unknown old town streets until I happened upon the Sally Studio, a dynamic school for contemporary arts... a special place with a cool mission. Furthermore, I learned that Tallinn would be the Cultural Capital of Europe for 2011, and that the Sally Studio would sponsor Eksperimenta!, a international contemporary art triennial.

As the project is aligned closely with my interests and experiences in art education, I wrote a proposal to present a workshop loosely based on the concept of synesthesia and experimenting with multi-sensoral artistry. Around the new year, I was informed that my abstract was accepted and I would be joining twelve other artists from ten countries to present at the IDEAlaboratory.

Fast forward a few months... and here I am, back in Tallinn, at the inaugural Eksperimenta! triennial, surrounded by a sea of artists and ideas. My presentation, Juxtaposed Harmony, is designed to expand the boundaries of composition to include multiple-sensoral stimuli and facets of creation. By experimenting with sound montage, mixed media installations, and , we uncover new avenues for contemporary solution.

I'm grateful for this opportunity to exchange with so many diverse artists and to revisit such a culture-rich community. I met some incredible young students from Turkey to Korea to Latvia... all offering fresh perspective and showing great promise in the world of contemporary art development. Thank you to the Sally Studio and the Fulbright Commission, for sponsoring my workshop and offering me yet another source of inspiration.

The Great (Micro)State: Luxembourg, LUXEMBOURG

2011-04-26T07:46:00.000-07:00

I couldn't do a legitimate Benelux tour without hitting the LUX... so I took a day-trip excursion to the lush green city-state of Luxembourg.

Though it was a (European) holiday, Easter Monday, not much was closed in this touristic city; turns out a lot of people had the same idea as me... spending some time cruising the old town, the new town, the castles, the walls, and (best of all) the parks!

One of the coolest interactions of the day was when I met this Portuguese park ranger / sculpture artist... he didn't speak any English and I don't speak any real Portuguese, so we had a long conversation about the city, his family, his work, my travels, etc. in 'Spanish' (probably a lot longer than it would've been if either of us really spoke Spanish fluently... but it was a lot of fun). I really dig finding common grounds... and when they're not there, it can be even more fun to make them... I find communication with strangers about strange things, while confusing, enlightening and inspiring.

I also had a chance to check out the contemporary art museum: Casino Luxembourg. They had some really intriguing exhibits... I spent most of my time viewing these video installations in conjunction with Pascal Grandmaison... they were outta sight!

Host of the EU, Host With the Most: Brussels > Bruges, BELGIUM

2011-04-24T03:56:00.000-07:00

Three days in Belgium, and everything went (better than) as planned. For starters, in a city that gets as much rain as Portland, we happened to experience the sunniest days of the year... it was, in fact, it set a record for being the warmest city in all of Europe one of the days we were there (and that never happens in Brussels)! But the weather was only the beginning of the warmth I felt in Belgium.

I have been incredibly fortunate with all of my hosts along my travels this year; I've met some amazing people and been welcomed by super kind locals in each of the cities. Continuing with my great streak... I haven't ever met more generous strangers than my new friends Marie-Françoise and Jean-Jacques in Brussels. My friend Trish put me in touch with her long-time friends and we hit it off right away. In just three days with them, they made me feel so welcome that I felt like I was part of their family.

Marie-Françoise cooked for me every single meal, even when I wasn't around... she just wanted to have food ready for me when I got back 'home.' They treated me to a personal walking tour (concentrating on the rich art-nouveau architecture of the city, much credited to Victor Horta), authentic Belgian-style waffles, chocolate, ales, cheeses, and filled in the gaps with great conversation and quality time at their place in Schuman (right in the mix, near the EU headquarters, etc)...

One afternoon, Jean-Jacques took us to one of his favourite beer halls; tucked in a side alley (off of tourist row): A La Becasse. We did the tasting tour of four fine belgian ales and then... on my fifth... I discovered my new favourite beer in the world: Gueuze Cantillon. Coincidentally, Jean-Jacques has family ties to this organic lambic and I was convinced to give it a try... and it wasn't just because it was my fifth beer of curiously strong Belgian notoriety... because I tried it again the next day and was equally impressed!

On Easter morning, I found myself in the city center at the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula... wow... a pretty special place to happen upon, and a great way to start the days' adventures to Brugge. Bruges (English spelling) is a gorgeous medieval town in the Flemish region (northwest Belgium)... and another prominent World Heritage Site of UNESCO!

I could go on and on about my stay in Belgium (and, I'm sure I may in conversation), but for now, I'm trying to catch up on journaling... so I must leave my words short... and let the photos tell more of the story...

Spring Holidays are Budding: Amsterdam, NETHERLANDS

2011-04-20T23:36:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Amsterdam on the twentieth, and though the city is often under water for much of April, my spring holiday was off to a hot start... (twenty-three Celsius is 73° F). I was stoked to finally visit the Netherlands and to experience Earth Day and Easter in the BeNeLux!

Walking out of the train station into the heart of the city, I was promptly greeted by the sun-filled sky and smiling faces... it was destined to be a good few days in the Dutch capital! I met up with Anouk (my new friend and couchsurfing host), dropped my things off at her place, and without wasting any time, we hit the local Bar Baarsch and chilled on the patio for a few hours, so I could get adjusted to the new scene and the scenesters alike... On the way back to Anouk's flat, we stopped by the playground... turns out monkeys are suckers for jungle gyms. I couldn't resist.

In the morning, I headed for Museum Square... but before indulging in any (of the many) distinguished art posts, I decided to join the hundreds of people marinating in the sun of the museum gardens... I soaked it up for a bit, contemplating whether or not I wanted to wait out the queue for the Van Gogh Museum. I realized that I could still enjoy the sun and the people while I waited, so I queued up and waited my (little over an) hour with everybody else...

The wait seemed reasonable and the Van Gogh Museum didn't disappoint. It amazes me that dude was only an artist for ten years before taking his own life... so crazy, so prolific. His impact on modern art is equivalent to the influence that Hendrix or Cobain had in their short time in the 'business.' A certain souvenir to mankind, I respect his "conventional language that did not derive from nature," and his non-traditional route of academic art training.

I spent the rest of day weaving through the city... without much of a clue, and without wanting one. I was happy to explore on my own, with no expectations and no destinations. I walked through the Nine Streets, along dozens of canals, and discovered the charm that I've heard so much about. I walked until the sun set and eventually met up with Kent and Annie for a late dinner at Purna, a great Indian restaurant in the Nine Streets. Afterwards, I went out barhopping (by bike) with Anouk and Odett in De Pijp ('the pipe'), a hip and colourful neighborhood near the Jordaan. Of course, I wouldn't be able to understand Amsterdam, without at least taking a ride through the Red Light District at night... so a hilarious cruise through the Red Light was a great way to close the night...

The next day was Earth Day in beautiful Amsterdam... and I was stoked to rent a bike and get a proper tour of the city with a local, my new Anouk. We went everywhere... from the can't-miss touristic spots to the hidden treasures to the sea for lunch to the amazing Vondelpark! Dig this place... it's not a parade or a festival or any kind of special happening... just a beautiful day in Amsterdam and people relish the opportunity to be outside... it reminds me so much of the parks in Denver (especially City Park)... the people, the bikes, the weather, the smell in the air...

The sites of Amsterdam are like no other city I've ever visited... not only the canals, 'coffee shops', and red light district that I've always heard about... but the lifestyle and the everyday norms lead to some pretty unforgettable scenes. I love the idea of a city where bicycle culture is such a principal part of everyone's day-to-day... kids (babies even) riding on front of mom and dad's bikes, chicks sitting on the rear luggage carriers (both legs swung off one side)... it's a hot style and an attractive culture!

Yes, the bridged roads lift to let boats pass by...

The Anne Frank House.

The world's narrowest house (one-meter wide).

The signature row houses along the canals.

Oh, and the last night, Anouk and Sophie and I went to Kill All Hipsters at Club 8... It was a rad little alternative joint, playing hot jams (from Crystal Castles to Thee Oh Sees to TV on the Radio to Grizzly Bear to The Beatles)... sweet indie / electro / postpunk party... not to mention glow-in-the-dark ping pong!

Oh, and dig these tulips we saw from the train to Belgium... we happened to pass through in just the right season.

Two last photos... a wall of Dutch football players with incredible 'staches (that resemble American baseball players from the eighties)... and the namesake cheese shop of my brother Mark.

The Offbeat: Set Two.

2011-03-31T13:13:00.000-07:00

Picking up where I left off last month, I've gathered a few more accounts for the second installment of The Offbeat: authentic stories of cultural difference...

Crazy Talk. The Hungarian language is so entertaining to me... the more I learn, the more I laugh. I find it funny that there are some words that are roughly the same in all languages... until that word meets Magyar, the language of Hungarians. For example, let's take a simple word like police... it seems like an important word to be able to communicate and perhaps that's why it is fairly similar in most languages. In Spanish: policía, Polish: policji, Dutch: potitie, Czech: policie, Italian: polizia, Romanian: poliţie, and even in Finnish (which people say is as difficult as Hungarian): poliisi. But, no... in Hungarian it's rendőrség. Now, I realize that Hungarian is unrelated to Latin, or any other Indo-European language for that matter, but can't we just have a word that is related to something that the rest of the world recognizes?

Another entertaining stroke of language comedy comes up every time I go to check out at (any) shop if I am using a credit card. In Hungary, the customer hands the card to the cashier, and then after swiping the card, he or she will return the card and prompt the customer to press the zöld (green) button that hilariously reads "helyes" to confirm the amount to be charged to my card. Of course, I think to myself (with authority)... 'hell yes, this amount is okay!'

Common courtesy? I suppose we all take some things for granted, and I realize (now) that I often expect Hungarian people will act the same way they do in Colorado when put in relative situations. Well, I'm learning time and time again... this isn't always the case.

A few weeks ago, I was making gulyás and was fresh out of garlic... so, I walked up the street to Penny Market, picked up a package of garlic and went to the register. I arrived at the checkout at exactly the same time as a couple pushing an overflowing cart (and even carrying the beer that wouldn't fit in the cart). When we made eye contact, I thought that the woman would surely insist that I went ahead of her (remember, I had one simple package of garlic... and I even had exact change to pay and go). However, just when we made eye contact and she recognized our simultaneous arrival, she quickly started throwing her groceries up on the conveyor belt and unloaded her entire cart... she even had the nerve to look back once, as if she wanted to make sure I didn't try to go in front of her. I wish that I could say this was a one-time occurrence, but unfortunately I've experienced this type of interaction several times since moving here last summer. I just have to laugh to myself and appreciate that I'm being forced to slow down and wait a bit... something I've had trouble doing until moving to Europe... the pace change is totally good for me. And, again, of course, this isn't the way everybody acts... there are still plenty of kind folks that would gladly let me go ahead.

Kaposvár Farmers Market. In contrast to the typical shop environment, the farmers market is a world of it's own... and it is so cool! Sure, we have great farmers markets back in Colorado... really great ones actually... but, they definitely don't have the character that the Kaposvár Market does. When I go to the market here, I probably spend more time watching people than I do picking out produce and managing to pay (all in Hungarian, of course). I swear, all the little old Kaposvári ladies and sharp-dressed old Kaposvári men come out every morning (except Mondays) for this cultural roundup... everyone has something to sell and everyone has business to make. And, somehow, there's a buyer for everything! Furthermore, there is always a queue at the büfé... men and women line up for their pálinka and májas hurka (liver sausage)... I suppose it completes the morning market experience. I don't think I'll ever get produce at Tesco again (and I know I won't ever get it at Penny Market again)!

Things I miss: Luna, quality teaching assistants, people picking up dog sh*t regularly, mowing the lawn, juicing my breakfast, standing up to take a 'normal shower,' and 'real' Mexican food (not Hung-Mex).

Things I don't miss: staying at school for ten-plus hours a day, being pressed by servers for 'camping' at cafés or restaurants, the rush, entering twenty-plus grades per student each semester, and waking up at 5:51 every morning.

Click here for The Offbeat: Set One.

Crossing the North Sea: Oslo, NORWAY.

2011-03-30T14:08:00.000-07:00

I couldn't help but smile as I took the train in to the city center from the airport... looking out the window, laughing at the relentless sun trying to melt the fields of thick Norwegian snow... knowing he really doesn't stand a chance. I think about my last few weeks... from the Balkans to Berlin, and now to Norway... and I realize that March has come and gone without me even recognizing it was here! Furthermore, I understand that time won't wait, so I have to keep enjoying each passing moment...

While time is flying by, I feel really lucky... to see so many amazing places and meet so many incredible people. And, this week, I get to reunite with two of the coolest people I know; my good friends Susan and Roy are coming to visit me in Europe!

So... Norway is freaking cool. My friend Danielle used to live in Oslo and gave me the scoop on a bunch of places to check out, and even sweeter... she put me in touch with her friend Sigurd... who let Susan and I stay with him for a few nights! Sigurd and his partner, Øystein, were incredibly welcoming and live right in the thick of Grünerløkka... what I learned to be the hottest neighborhood in Oslo!

I spent the first day getting my bearings of the city... walking most of it, and catching up with Sigurd. I had a ticket to see Common at the Rockefeller in Oslo that night, but at the last minute, he canceled. I was definitely bummed, but there was much more to experience in Oslo than the hip hop show. And, over the course of the next few days... we pretty much did it all!

Susan got in the next morning, and we immediately went down to the Oslo Fjord (which was super cool). We bounced from cafés to museums to the Royal Palace to the City Hall and hit a bunch more places on the way up and down too. We stumbled upon the Nobel Peace Center: home of the world renowned peace prize, the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, the National Gallery, the Contemporary Art Museum, and the Arkansas Fortress.

At night, we went to the Royal Revolver, this rad little underground dive with red leather furniture and red lights to see Woods. It was pretty freaking cool to catch the Brooklyn newcomers at this hip rock and roll joint about 200 meters from where we were staying... Oh, and dude plays a pair of tape recorders! Yes, G. Lucas Crane is a tape-effects technician... manipulating two tape decks as turntables, slowing down and speeding up the playback heads and singing into headphones, synthesizing harmonies with the tape effects (routed through guitar pedals)... pretty wild.

Oslo is a very walkable city, so on the third day, we did a lot more of just that. Our first stop was Tim Wendleboe, a mighty fine micro roastery... in fact, arguably the greatest barista in the world (2006 World Champion and 2005-2010 Nordic Champion Barista)... dude knows how to brew a cup of jo! Then, we cruised Karl Johan a few times (some of them on accident), hit the DogA (Norwegian Centre for Design and Architecture) and somehow wound up in Haussmaniak, the artist squat... funny how this always happens. I'm quickly realizing that all the cool European cities have an alternative art scene... not in just the art being created, but a dedicated area for a different way of life. Here, it is Haussmania in the Blå section of Grünerløkka.

After playing around Blå for a bit, we made our way to Gustav Vigeland's sculpture park... Vigelandsparken... and wow, it's sweet! On our last night in Oslo, we went out to dinner with Sigurd and Øystein at this delicious restaurant called Fyret... we had some of the freshest seafood and elk! Late night, we decided to check out Blå for funky dance jams all night long!

On the last morning, we took another walk up by the student silos (student housing inside of legitimate old silos!) to Tim Wendleboe because it was that good! We hit the Oslo flea market (a mix of trendy and trashy) and hit the train to the airport... what a trip!

Haakon: third king of Norway.

Creative Capital: Berlin, GERMANY.

2011-03-24T13:56:00.000-07:00

On my mission to see as many new places as I can this year, I have only re-visited a few European cities outside of Hungary (like Vienna and Ljubljana), but when I heard about the opportunity to go back to Berlin... I was champing at the bit! Berlin is one of my all-time favourite cities and it just so happens to be the site of the International Fulbright Seminar each year...

The Fulbright Program continues to impress and introduce me to incredible opportunities; this week was just an extension of the standard. The program was filled with insightful panel discussions, networking forums, workshops, cultural outings, and capped with an incredible Music Gala at the Universität der Kúnste Concert Hall. Not to mention, they put us up in the middle of the middle... in Alexanderplatz at the famous Park Inn Hotel... But, above all, the most valuable part of the conference for me was meeting all the other Fulbrighters from around Europe... hearing their stories, learning about their experiences, and exchanging perspective of culture. From medical doctors to professors, writers to scientists, students to researchers; everyone has a unique story and they all add to the global effort... it's pretty freaking awesome really.

I arrived a day early to do some exploring on my own... to meddle around the art scene, seeing what I could discover. Just as happenstance, I finally had the opportunity to watch Exit Through The Gift Shop on the train to Budapest the morning that I left... and the inspiration hit at just the right moment. Just a few hours later, I was walking along the East Side Gallery... peeping, arguably, the best street art scene in the world... I walked along the Berlin Wall remains and stared at the Super Moon, the biggest, brightest, and closest full moon in almost twenty years... on the eve of the spring equinox... and Luna's sixth birthday!

The flexible conference schedule gave us a lot of time to tour the city... and since I had already been to Berlin before (and did the Brandenburg Gate, the Holocaust Memorial, the Führerbunker, etc.), I was able to dig further into the rich art scene that Berlin has to offer. I can't even begin to abstract all the places I wandered into and all the rad people I met over the course of the week... but these are a few places I remembered to write down (or at least take a photo of)...

Neurotitan Gallery. Off the beaten path, this gallery had plenty of new artists and lots of household street artist names too (Banksy, Blue, etc).

Neue Nationalgalerie. (New National Gallery) An incredible collection of expressionism, dada, bauhaus, and surrealism... from Kirchner to Léger, modern to contemporary... all very cool.

Mauerpark. This place is the illest! I originally went to meet up with Saya, a former student of mine and current student at Humboldt University in Berlin... She was helping out at Operation Onigiri... trading rice balls and paper cranes for donations to the earthquake/tsunami relief fund in Japan. I finally got a chance to meet up with her (about five hours after I got there), which was awesome! And, in the meantime I got caught up in the party in the park, fading into the crowd of thousands at the Sunday Market!

Hamburger Bahnhof. This huge contemporary art museum is housed in an old train station... one of the coolest art spaces I've ever seen. I went with Saya and her sister, who was visiting from Japan.

Deutsche Guggenheim. Agathe Snow: All Access World. Radical reinvention and inspiring aesthetic experiments!

Vans Butcher Block. One of only eight Vans retail stores in the continent, this one must be the king! This real-deal old-school butcher shop turned shoe store has an exclusive limited edition slip-on to represent the (over 100-year old) original green porecelain tiles...

The only bummer of the week was when I found out The Black Keys canceled their gig at Astra on Tuesday night... I had plans to check it out, BUT it just gave me more time to check out some other local Berlin dives at night, including: Astro Bar (some funky little hipster joint in the hot Freidrichshain District) and White Trash Fast Food (yes, that is the name of this tattoo studio / independent cinema / nightclub... and, yes, it is as cool as it sounds).

Rounding Out The Balkans: Belgrade > Novi Sad, SERBIA

2011-03-16T12:54:00.001-07:00

On the last day of our Balkan foray... we had to hustle through the southern part of the Carpathian Basin to make it back to Pécs (Hungary). Needless to say, we didn't have time to tarry in Serbia.

We stopped in Belgrade, but it wasn't exactly what we had imagined for a break... we got stuck in the heart of the city in the heart of a two hour traffic jam in the morning work rush. Oh well...

Once we got through Belgrade, we made a bee-line for Novi Sad and finally had a chance to get out for some lunch. Novi Sad (sister city of Pécs) is said to be quite a cultural hub... so it would be cool to get back there sometime...

Ah, the end of another rad adventure... a few days of teaching and then a week in Berlin for the European Fulbright Seminar!

Here Comes The Sun: Ohrid > Skopje, MACEDONIA

2011-03-15T12:53:00.000-07:00

By the early afternoon, we made it all to the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid, to another World Heritage Site: Ohrid, in southwest Macedonia. More than a few friends recommended Ohrid... and, though we were running short on time, we decided to make the push and agreed it was well worth the effort.

Ohrid is a gorgeous city with a cool disposition. The steep cobblestone streets are filled with galleries, gardens, cafés, old-school barber shops, fortresses, and a mess of churches... once upon a time Ohrid had 365 churches, one for each day in the year.

Already a hot bed for tourism, we were lucky to get there in early spring (when there is no queue for straight-razor shaves, because they are sweet).

We left Ohrid at sunset, and we were getting really short on time (being that we had to make the long haul through Serbia to get back to Hungary the next evening)... but, my good friend Tanja (from Slovenia) has a friend in Skopje; I had heard great things about him and the city, so I really wanted to pay him a visit and see what we could of Skopje at night.

Well, we met just the guy... Goce is a great dude - very open-minded, flexible, intelligent, and super kind. He is a drummer / neolithic archaeologist / professor... by profession, but served as a rad Skopje tour guide for the night. While running around the city, he fed us the abridged history of Macedonia, present-day political and social climate, and gave us the scoop on the future push to enter the EU in conjunction with Skopje 2014 (and the controversies that are arising with the redevelopment). It was a hell of a lesson, and a killer tour in just a few hours.

I would definitely like to reconnect with Goce in the heart of the Balkans again... I dig Macedonia and think it would be cool to hang there for a bit longer... hopefully getting to catch Goce at a gig somewhere and get into the art scene a little more next time around too...

'Potential' Paradise: Tirana > Mount Korab, ALBANIA

2011-03-14T12:51:00.000-07:00

As soon as we crossed the border from Montenegro, we entered a new world. Going through customs and border patrol, alone, was an experience! And, the roads... oh, the roads... It was entertaining to me (frightening to Emily and Kent) that the main vein from the border to the capital was more extreme than any off-road adventure any of us had every been on. It was a one-ish lane rock and dirt road, filled with crater-sized potholes.

Fortunately, the sun came up and our nerves were eased a bit (as we could then see, and avoid, the huge pits in the road), but unfortunately we could also easily see the insane amount of rubbish heaping in the streams and along the road. It is a sad sight, because as I look beyond the litter, I can see the beauty of the Albanian landscape...

We made our way to Tirana just in time to take part in an (unexpected) national holiday, the Dita e Verës: a pagan lunar spring festival. The capital was filled with energy and people filled the streets and parks. We had no choice but to park for a while and fit into the celebrations...

Eventually, we were able to get out of the mayhem, and started into the mountains. People spilled into the nearby towns and the family holiday even showed up outside the villages on the roadside. Families were cooking, playing football, along the side of the 'highway!'

As we got further out of the city, I realized that the Albanian landscape is like a really dirty Switzerland (and I mean it as a compliment). Herein, lies the potential... I believe the beauty can be uncovered, saved... but I think it will require some western influence to make it happen.

Pearl of the Mediterranean: Kotor Bay > Mount Lovčen, MONTENEGRO

2011-03-13T12:52:00.000-07:00

Montenegro is ridiculous. I love it and already can't wait to go back!

The day started with a sunrise drive along Kotor Bay, and though it seemed like it couldn't get any sweeter, the landscape kept changing and never disappointed. It was like driving across the United States (omitting Kansas)... from the sea to the mountains, Montenegro has it all in just 13,812 km² (one-fifth the size of Colorado)!

Once we got off the coast and started winding up the mountain roads, we took advantage of many roadside pull-offs to scope the panorama (playing real-life Frogger across traffic, whipping out our cameras, attempting to secure a perfect place in time)... however photos just can't capture the air, the stillness, the feeling...

When we set off on the Balkan tour earlier this week, we each had a unique number one spot we wanted to explore (Kent: Sarajevo, Emily: Dubrovnik), and mine was the nature of Montenegro. I had been curious about Montenegro for a while, and had been wanting to get into the mountains again to do some hiking. Finally, we arrived on the scene...

When we reached the base of Mount Lovčen in beautiful Lovčen National Park, we had no idea it would be buried in snow. Unfortunately, Emily and I were both wearing canvas sneakers (and they were the only pair of shoes I had for the week), but I made it that far and had to go for the hike anyway. Emily stayed at the base and Kent and I started up the mountain. About a third of the way up, it started getting pretty extreme and the snow was getting deeper when we met the only other guy on the whole mountain, a local doctor from the nearby village of Njeguši. He told us that the snow was just getting heavier and deeper and it would be a struggle if we wanted to go all the way up (he didn't go to the peak, but he said he was about 200 meters from the top). Kent decided to turn back, but I am grateful that he encouraged me to keep trekking.

About an hour later, I found myself beyond any footsteps or tracks and up to my knees in snow, but I could see Njegoš's Mausoleum at the peak of the mountain... and soon-after made it to the summit. The view was breathtaking for 360 degrees... I was reminded of my home in Colorado and smiled. After the summit, I was racing with adrenaline and charged down the mountain in twenty-five minutes... When I made it back to the car and took off my high-tops and rang them out and didn't put them back on until the next day when we arrived in Albania.

We headed to Rijeka Crnojevica, a fortified medieval town in Lake Skadar. We chilled on the patio of this sweet little restaurant (Konoba Mostina) boasting "tranquil riverside dining" and had some choice seafood for the second time in as many days. After a beautiful sunset and relaxing stop in Crnojevica, we continued on to the capital, Podgorica... but didn't find too much exciting (or even interesting) happening there. So, we kept rolling...

It was an amazing day in Montenegro and a day I will always remember... starting with a walk around Kotor bay (with dry shoes), working our way into the peaks of the Black Mountains (completely soaking my shoes), down to the largest lake in the Balkan Peninsula (no shoes), to the capital Podgorica (still no shoes, attempting to dry them out by the hostel heater)...

Cruising the Coast: Dubrovnik, CROATIA

2011-03-12T12:42:00.000-08:00

There's something extremely satisfying about cruising the Dalmatian Coast in the early spring with the sun high, the windows low, and Pet Sounds navigating the way. Dubrovnik is clearly the most picturesque spot on the coast and it seems the secret is out. The terminal end of the Croatia coastline is quickly becoming the hottest vacation spot in all of Central / Eastern Europe. And, well, it's no wonder why...

I was inspired (or perhaps deceived) by the beautiful Adriatic waters and warm sun and promised Kent and Emily I would jump in once we made it down to the harbour... little did I know it would be sub 10°C (50°F). Oh well...

We spent hours walking around the city walls and old town Dubrovnik, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I split off for a bit to check out the Dulçiç Masle Pulitika (Contemporary Art Centre), and we reset at the Dubrovnik Backpackers Club a few hours later.

The family that owned the hostel was sweet; old man sat us down for a history lesson of Dubrovnik and then the misses recommended a great seafood restaurant for dinner... back in old town near Onofrio's Fountain. Well we finally made our way to Lucin Kantun, and it was phenomenal! Honestly, it was one of the most amazing meals I've had since living in Europe (on par with the best of Hungary and even Sicily)... local catch, prepared in house by top-notch chefs...

The next morning, we woke before the sun (this is the view from the hostel stoop)... and hopped back on the coastal voyage to Montenegro!

The Balkan Begining: Sarajevo > Mostar, BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA

2011-03-11T12:40:00.000-08:00

The Balkan Sampler Tour began with a much-debated drive through Bosnia & Herzegovina. After I spent a lot of time designing this trip with some local experts (my colleague Tibor was most helpful), I was poised on the plan... and, as preposterous as it seemed, I was ready to hop in Zsolt (the trusty Honda Civic) and give it a go.

Unfortunately, my travel mates, Kent and Emily, didn't have the same confidence in our route. They are, after all, the voices of reason in our adventures, so I had to at least hear them out. They found ample sites and sources (including the US State Dept.) that, more or less, advised against traveling through Bosnia & Herzegovina... stating things like: "roads are poorly maintained... and there are still an estimated 11,000 minefields and an estimated 220,000 active land mines..." But, somehow, I convinced them that it would be fine... and sure enough it was. In fact, it was more than fine... probably the best roads we drove on all week!

The drive was beautiful and the we made it to Sarajevo far ahead of schedule, arriving at lunchtime. We spent the day in the capital... walking the streets, peeping both the mosque and cathedral, visiting a couple small museums, meeting some local folks and enjoying some regional cuisine: Ćevapi.

Of course, we also had to check out the famous Latin Bridge over the Miljacka River, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated (becoming the casus belli of World War I). After the sun set, we made a last walk-thru the city center and hit the road...

As beautiful as Sarajevo is, Mostar was even more amazing! We arrived in Mostar late in the evening and found our way to the Majda's Rooms, the number one 'small hostel' in the world (according to HostelWorld.com in 2009). Majda is incredibly friendly and was helpful in our short stay and tour of Mostar and we enjoyed being the only guests that night. I talked with her for a while about the Bosnian War, and her escape to London in '93. Meeting people that have lived through these times and listening to their stories makes everything finally seem real. I really value our conversations and perspective I gained.

Before we called it a night, Kent and I found a local joint to enjoy a couple Sarajevsko Pivos. Then, we were up early... (or did we sleep at all?) for a run around Mostar. The city was even more impressive by day. We spent most of our time on the Neretva River by the city's most prominent landmark, the Old Bridge (reconstructed in 2004). We saw a lot of incredibly real testaments of the war, including a photography museum portraying both the destruction and the aftermath. And, although much of the city has been rebuilt, the damage is still totally visible (like in this building with a strange dedication to Lady Gaga)...

Culture Crash: Balkan Photo Collection Lost... (and FOUND).

2011-03-10T02:32:00.000-08:00

Freshly back from an amazing tour of the Balkans... I was eager to view my photos... but just after I imported my photos (and deleted them from my memory card) my external hard drive crashed and I lost over six hundred photos in an instant. I ran a myriad of file recovery programs, but was unable to bring them back on my own. Down on hope, I turned to Gábor (the tech-support guru at Munkácsy) and István (a local friend, and computer magician)... and they came through in the clutch!

I wasn't able to get back all of the photos, but many have resurfaced (probably about two-thirds), and I am more than thankful for their efforts and faith in (what I thought was) the seemingly impossible. I will be posting some of the photos and some stories soon, but I am off to Berlin tomorrow morning, so they'll have to wait a bit...

Somehow, in my lifetime, I have lost photo collections several times... I lost many photos from my first trip to Europe (2007: Italy, Greece, Turkey), all of my photos from my second trip to Europe when I came to watch Led Zeppelin's final concert (2008: England), again, ALL of my photos from my third tour of Europe (2009: Germany, Czech Republic, Switzerland, France, Austria, Liechtenstein), and now some of my photos from my tour of the Balkans (2011: Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia, Serbia). Someday, I will learn the power of backup archives.

March Madness.

2011-03-05T01:35:00.000-08:00

March is here... and so is the annual schedule cramming that accompanies the passage from winter to spring. I love it though. Of course, the over-extension can cause a bit more pressure on the mind and body, but I feel my best when I'm busy... working, playing, working, playing... especially when the working is playing!

Work / Play: My course at Kaposvár University (Alternative Art Lab) is in full swing now, and we've been working on some really rad projects... sound collage, printmaking, painting... all things different and new. I'm putting in a lot of time at the university, but I'm having a lot of fun with my new students... we're building dynamic compositions, experiences, and relationships. At Munkácsy, we're getting geared up for some big plans as well... My Art Klub is going to take a run at extending the legacy of the fresh shoe design project (with a Hungarian twist)! And, I have also been working with István, the other art teacher at our school, to help jury and hang the county art show, "Miniatűrök Tárlata."

Travel / Play: This weekend, I'll take off on a road trip through the Balkans! I'm not sure exactly where I'll go, but it will all be new. I haven't found too many people that can help with the plan, because, really, I don't know too many people that have been down that way... so it's quite a mystery still. But, I think that's what makes me so excited! I'm most eager to get into the great outdoors again... I have visited many cities in this European resident year, but haven't spent a lot of time in nature, and I'm missing it. It's one of the biggest reasons I decided to rent a car for the rest of the year... getting to some harder-to-hit destinations and getting into the natural landscape a bit. I'm hoping to go through Croatia (especially the Dalmatian coast, leading down to Dubrovnik), Bosnia (especially Sarajevo, which I've heard great things about), Montenegro (the country I'm most excited about... looking forward to being back in the mountains), and Serbia... we'll see if I can make it all, and maybe even squeeze in Albania and Macedonia too!

Then, I'm back in Kaposvár for (less than) a week, before I head to Berlin for a week long Fulbright Seminar! Berlin is one of my favourite cities in the EU, so I'm totally stoked for that. Then, I'll go directly to Oslo for a few days, where I'll meet my friend Susan! From Norway, we'll head back to Hungary together... a workweek in Kaposvár and then back to Budapest to show her around the capital. That's about the time the next visitor rolls in... my buddy Campanella will meet up with us and stay for the last week... and I'm sure we'll devise some sort of excursion to round out the month. So, that's it... March. Wow.

Carnevale: Slovenian Coast > Venice.

2011-03-02T13:58:00.000-08:00

Heading out of town at 2:10 on Thursday afternoons has become a bit of a habit at this point; this past Thursday was no exception. I am so grateful for this Fulbright experience, and the freedom it has given me to explore... learning and growing along the way. I am taking advantage of the many Friday programs Fulbright lines up for us, and when we have Fridays off... well, I'm taking off... to see and do more... I just feel like it would be a waste not to live the full experience and potential.

This week, I drove to Ljubljana Thursday afternoon and met up with Tanja (a friend I met at the MMW show back in September)... I stayed there for the night and we hit the road early for the coast. I've experienced a bit of Slovenia's dynamic diversity, but until this weekend, had never visited the coast. Though the Adriatic access is limited (only 42 kilometers of Slovenian coast), it is incredibly beautiful. The color is not like any other waters I've seen. Of course, the waters surrounding Greece, Scandinavia, and Maui have all blown me away... but the actual colour of the Adriatic is different. Of course, my camera won't be able to tell the whole story, and either will I... but, it's different.

Our first stop was Piran, a quaint harbour town with a resident artist community and laid back feel. The vibe was mellow enough to calm (even) me for a short time... which is pretty impressive, given my constant urge to seek activity.

We went to Portoroz for lunch. Portoroz is the most touristy town in Istria (the southwest region of the Slovenian coast), so we didn't stay long, but having lunch by the beach is alright with me.

In the afternoon, we met our friend Barbara at Mesečev Zaliv (Moon Bay). We spent the rest of the day hiking up along the top of the moon and down to the sea. Not surprisingly, I was reminded of my moon, as we hiked the switchbacks to the water... I just smiled picturing Luna flying by me to see what's ahead and coming back to check in...

Perhaps the coolest thing about our hike is that we saw a total of three people all afternoon (and Tanja happened to, coincidentally, know them all). One of the people we did meet is Gregor Šubic, an international filmaker who recently completed a rad documentary on the birds of Montenegro: Ambassadors of Montenegro. What a funny dude... when we ran into him, he just got done with a mountain bike trek to the sea (where he took a dip in the chilly chilly waters)... pretty extreme. He dug through his gear to find me a copy of the documentary, so now I have some inspiration to visit Montenegro!

In the evening, we went back to to Izola, where Barbara lives... and met up with Frenk, another friend from the MMW show. We chilled out and at Barbara's place, a rad little pad on the top floor of the building (overlooking the sea)... and eventually made our way into Koper for a nightcap. But, the morning would come soon, and we had big plans!

Saturday morning rolled around and we were off to Venice for the acclaimed Carnevale di Venezia! People around Europe (and perhaps the rest of the world too) are buzzing about the Venice Carnival, and I just had to check it out for myself. From Rio to N'awlins, carnivals are the rage right now, and this wild Baroque extravaganza in Venice is Europe's most important.

Venice is magic. It's true. I've heard about it all my life, but finally getting a chance to walk the narrow alleys and witness the flooded streets was pretty spectacular. While the streets formed canals, filled with water, the bridges and alleys were flooded with people! I hear that Venice is always crowded, but there is an extra 300,000 people crammed into the city this week. We constantly tried to search for 'the side street with fewer people and less traffic,' but after thirteen hours of cruising the city we realized that it didn't exist.

The Venetian Festival has a rich history, celebrating expression throughout the classes. During the carnival, people don masks to hide their identity and ignore social classes. The masks create all sorts of characters and themes.

I've definitely never seen anything like Piazza San Marco at high noon on Saturday of the Venice Carnival. The square is defined by three arcades and St. Mark's Cathedral on the eastern end... and it was completely filled with people (many in costume) and music... it's quite the site!

This old woman made me laugh and laugh (and fall apart). She sat on her terrace overlooking the crowded Riva degli Schiavoni, playing with the festival-goers... though it seemed she was not interacting with specific people, rather the idea of the crowd itself. We had a lot of fun speculating what she was actually thinking to herself and imagining her connection to the carnival over the years. I was so happy to capture this shot of her peeking out of the open door to flash her mask at the sea of people.

In the evening, we had a pretty bomb meal... totally living up to my expectations and memories of the delicious Italian fare. Although, after a day of walking the carnival, my plate of pasta wasn't enough to fill me up... so I had ordered a second meal. Ah, then I was content.

As the sun set, many of the families left the carnival for the day... so, it was time for the party people to come alive. We went to check out the music at Indi Pendi. The opening slot was this dude, DJ Stra, from Venice... I had a chance to talk with him for a bit, and he turned me on to some other cool local artists. Next, was Grimoon, a cinematic pop act from France. But, the headliner was the most interesting band I'd seen in a while: Mariposa from Bologna. Yes, interesting usually means experimental and weird... and that's exactly what Mariposa is, all over the place... a strange ambient twist of Flaming Lips meets Brian Eno meets TV on the Radio meets Devotchka meets Pavarotti. This is them singing Ave Maria (a cappella) during the encore.

Austrian Circuit: Vienna > Stuhleck > Graz.

2011-02-13T16:33:00.000-08:00

So, Iron & Wine played a show in Vienna this weekend. It's been on my radar for a while and earlier this week, I finally looked into tickets (and saw they were available online). Not willing to make the commitment (at three days out, it was still too far in advance for me), I sat on it... and, well, apparently I waited a bit too long, because it sold out. But when Thursday rolled around I decided I was going to go for it anyway...

I just recently locked in a long-term rental car, so I'm stoked to have wheels for the spontaneous travel urges! This little car is just what I need... nothing fancy, just something to get me to new places: a two-door hatchback 1989 Honda Civic... I call him Zsolt. Zsolt, the lightning bolt (I'll post a photo soon).

So, not really knowing what was in store, I packed my sleeping bag, longboard, snowboard and gear, some clothes, camera, a big bag of fruit... made a pot of tea, and hit the road. It wasn't the first time I drove such a distance without a ticket, and I'm sure it won't be the last.

I was incredibly lucky to meet Katrin (through CouchSurfing), a local Viennese girl, who helped me get a ticket to the show and let me crash at her place for the night in Vienna. She has a sweet flat right in the fifth district... a rad neighborhood and an easy metro ride from the venue. By the time I rolled into town, it was about showtime, so we hustled to the venue and arrived just as Sam Beam and company were taking the stage. The WUK is an art and culture center with dance studios, rehearsal spaces, workshops, and a sweet little concert hall. The venue only holds five-hundred people and Iron & Wine filled it to the brim.

The show was brilliant. Sam has an incredibly keen understanding of production... where art meets execution. He put together an awfully big band for such a simple sound, but every player has the right space and the balance is right on. I had never seen I&W before, and I'm glad I was in Vienna to experience it there for the first time. They played an array of tunes from all of their releases, including several from my favouite (The Shepherd's Dog) and some from the new disc too (Kiss Each Other Clean)... which I dig even more live.

Friday: I woke up early and decided to go snowboarding... I was out the door, dodging the rain, trying to make it to my car before the meter maids came 'round. I made it with a few minutes to spare and hit the road for Stuhleck, a recommended ski resort in the Alps, west of Vienna. I arrived just as the lifts opened and hit the hill. It was a peaceful day of riding... I can really get used to no lift lines and wide open terrain... but, still, it was no Vail or Beaver Creek. Semmering (mountain pass in the Northern Limestone Alps) is definitely a step up from Rogla, but I think I need to go a bit further west (to Innsbruck or even into Switzerland / France) before I can experience the gnar that I know from home...

In the afternoon, I drove to Graz, just for fun. Wow, I love it. The 2003 Culture Capital sits on the Mur River in Southeast Austria. It's a super rad city (my favourite Austrian city since Innsbruck)... plenty of green and a different feel than Vienna all around. I like Vienna, but Graz is more my speed... it reminds me of Ljubljana... somewhere around 300,000 people and just a cool feel. Loads of people are out on bikes, many more are walking dogs through the old town, making art near the river, or reading in the park... I really dig cities like this; I feel the Denver / Boulder scene in a European landscape... pretty much unbeatable.

I skated around town, spending a while in the park, and crossed the Mur to check out the Kunsthaus before it closed. The contemporary art museum is called the 'friendly alien' for obvious reasons. It's wild structure has definitely become a local icon (much like the Denver Art Museum, but even more bazaar). There will always be opposition to modern architecture like this, but I personally, appreciate the beauty of the beast!

Rogla: Slovenian Shredding.

2011-02-08T19:15:00.000-08:00

I finally got a chance to hit the European slopes, and it felt great to be back on the gnarstick for two days of riding at Rogla! It doesn't matter that the peak (Pohorje Mountain) is only 5,000 feet or that there is only thirteen trails, there's still something about visiting Slovenia that makes me feel good...

Rogla is about four hours from Kaposvár. And... though it's (more than) twice the drive for (less than) one-tenth the terrain that I'm used to in Summit (County, Colorado), it was totally worth the trip. On the heels of the Szalagavató after-party (lasting until almost four am), 'morning' came awfully quick. Matyi's father picked me up in the nine-person cargo van, packed and ready to roll out to Rogla at five:thirty... Needless to say, I was happy that I didn't have to drive on less than one hour of sleep.

Arriving at the hill bright and early, we hit it right away. We were greeted by plenty of sun, but unfortunately not much snow. Still, it was a trip to be rolling with a new crew in a new place... and finally be snowboarding in another part of the world.

There aren't too many lifts (mostly t-bars) and limited free rides, so Matyi, Isti, and I spent most of our time in the Fun Park. Dig Matyi catching some big air off one of the park kickers...

We stayed in rad little mountain villa in town... not quite ski-in / ski-out, but still close enough to easily catch fresh tracks each morning. Our accommodations were just right... By day, we rode from the first chair to the last. And, by night, we hung out at the thermal spa and drank fine Hungarian wine. Pretty rad introduction to the European snow culture...

The Offbeat: Set One.

2011-02-07T03:47:00.000-08:00

There's no doubt about it... life is different in Kaposvár. Neither better nor worse, simply not the same. I have been keeping journals of the contrast and I thought some of these incidental themes may be enlightening (or at least entertaining) if they surfaced on my blog. So, I may post a few differences from time to time. I suppose I'll start now... presenting The Offbeat: authentic stories of cultural difference...

Before I even begin, it's important to understand that these are simply observations and musings I've deduced from my experiences... my real experiences... I understand and accept that this is not 'the way' all Kaposvárians, Hungarians, or even Europeans see things... but this is just a glimpse from my perspective, approaching all diversity with an open mind and curious intuition...

Six different ways...

The popular Hungarian outlook is rather, well, negative*. It's not my criticism, it's just the way it is... don't take it from me, ask someone from Hungary; I think they'll tell you the same. Of course, not everyone has this attitude, but there is certainly some truth to the label.

I find it interesting to see how this notion emerges... how it affects daily operations, and how it even crops up in the language... not the diction, but the actual breakdown of lexica. For example, the word for hospital is kórház. Ház means house, but what does kór mean? Not health or recovery or wellness (as one might assume or, at least, hope)... kór means disease. It was explained to me that this is the place one goes to die when they get ill, and thus, how it boils down to 'disease house.' I have heard loads of colloquial metaphors representing this same bitter stance. There's a Hungarian expression that translates roughly to: if a Hungarian man's cow dies, he doesn't want a new cow... he wants his neighbor's cow to die.

However, truth be known, I'm fortunate to have met some really great people at the school and in my travels that 'get it.' There are plenty of Hungarian people that realize the stigma that aligns with this cultural attitude, and make a conscious effort to escape the popular mindset.

*I have learned a lot about the reasons / excuses for this attitude and will share more of my findings and reflections later.
In the States it's widely considered feminine for men to go tanning, to straighten their hair, spend time at the spa, drink a bottle of soda from a straw, or wear fanny packs. In Hungary, these things are normal for men... but the kicker is this... In Kaposvár, I get strange looks when I tell people that I practice yoga (as to suggest that it is only for women). When I tell them that lots of dudes in the States do yoga, they are shocked. I try to explain to them that it's conditioning for the heart and mind, and to build core strength... but they (by and large) seem to think it is a joke... I just find it funny that people think it's girly for men to exercise via yoga, but totally normal for men to go to a tanning salon.

Of course, this doesn't stop me from being the only man in my local yoga class... the more intimidating part is that my instructor, Ibolya, doesn't speak a word of English (and rarely are there any women there that do). However, she is the sweetest lady and is a fantastic yogi (said to be one of the best in Somogy County), so it's worth the challenge; it's actually pretty fun to learn the poses and breathe cues, not in Sanscrit or English, but Hungarian. I've been practicing yoga now for over three years, but it's always a new adventure... especially now.
Sidewalk etiquette. I suppose I've always taken it for granted, but it's pretty strange to be in a place where people act like they don't see others approach them on the sidewalk. I've experienced this tough-guy approach where people feel entitled to walk down the sidewalk (as if it's only made for them) and everyone else should step out of the way. They will actually put their shoulder out to let you know they're there when you pass them too (instead of easing the brush-by).

And, when I'm on my skateboard... I'm not allowed (or at least welcome) on the street and I'm not allowed on the sidewalk either. I've tried both, and have gotten reprimanded in each situation. Coming with the American standard (where skateboarding is banned on the sidewalks), I mainly try to ride on the roads. To me, it makes sense... sidewalks are for walkers, pedestrians... not bikes, not skateboards, and definitely not rollerbladers. Though, I constantly get strange looks, mean looks, honks, and I have had two cops pull me over to yell at me. Okay, so, maybe the sidewalk is the place in Hungary? Nope. People act like they don't see me and expect me to get off my board and walk around them before hopping back on. Or, even worse yet, they give me an attitude like I should be on the street and not the sidewalk (ha)... I guess it will take some time for some things to change... and developing a Hungarian skateboard culture probably isn't the first thing that will advance.
Szalagavató: the Hungarian Prom? I don't know if it's the equivalent of the annual spring gala in the States, but it is a grand ball complete with opulent garb and even a choreographed waltz for the entire senior class. Like the prom, this is an elite affair for only the upperclassmen (the school-leavers, grade twelve and thirteen). And, also, much like the American Prom, there is entertainment (here it's a live band, it's too bad most of the prom entertainment has shifted to talentless DJs), a myriad of camera flashes going off all night, and plenty of making out.

However, unlike most proms, the Szalagavató is held in the school... right in the open space in between the classrooms. The evening begins with a proper ribbon ceremony, acknowledging the school-leavers for their years at the school (four, five, or six). This is followed by some formal speeches (much like graduation), and then there are class presentations in the classrooms. The students invite their teachers and parents to the classrooms, where they perform skits / songs and enjoy food and drink... and yes, you can even find the students drinking alcohol (champagne, etc.) with the teachers in the school! It truly is a different culture. After the reception, the students have a costume change and prepare for the formal dance performance. They come back out to the aulla in their poofy dresses, etc. and perform the well-rehearsed dance procession (the students have been meeting to learn and rehearse the dance one or two evenings a week for months). The parents join the students on the floor for a 'father-daughter' dance kind-of-thing for a few songs and then, finally the ball begins... the lights turn down lower and the 'prom' (as I know it) sets in... and culminates with the crowning of the beauty of the ball (sorry fellas, no king, just a queen here... after all, how many dudes really want to be the prom king anyway?)...
Things I miss: Luna, First Friday Art Walk, healthy food choices, clothes dryer, almond butter, Target, Sunflower Market, smiles from strangers, mountains, a whole house with a backyard and the freedom to make noise whenever I want, and Buffalo wings (although I did get the urge and guts to take a crack at making some tonight, my once a year Super Bowl fix... definitely not the same, but I can make up a pretty decent modified sauce with the local Hungarian hots: páprika)...
Things I don't miss: working five days every week, long queues for the lift lines and terrible weekend warrior traffic, professional development trainings, driving a car everyday, and talking / texting on my iPhone everyday (though I did just open up another outlet of communication, finally joining the world's third largest nation: FaceBook... we'll see how long it lasts)...

Lukač, CROATIA: Boarding Over Borders.

2011-01-23T11:12:00.000-08:00

I managed two new feats today... one: my first time in Croatia, and two: my first time skateboarding across an international border. Apparently, not only is that a first for me, but it was the first time anyone at the border crossing had witnessed someone cross the bridge, and exit the European Union on a longboard.

In fact, the Hungarian Border Guard didn't want to let me leave the country on my skateboard. Although he didn't speak a word of English (and I understand very little Hungarian), I could tell he wasn't impressed by my efforts when he called the immigration office for verification of my visa. He talked for a while, and kept looking at my passport and then back at me with his visual interrogation. I didn't catch much of his conversation but I did hear him say gördesza (skateboard) as he continued his mean-mugging. Eventually, and seemingly reluctantly, he stamped my passport and I headed over the River Drava, arriving at the Croatia Border Patrol.

Conversely, the kind woman at the Croatian State Line found it entertaining that I was traveling by skateboard and she was happy to welcome me into her country. She spoke perfect English and we joked about it for a bit before she opened the big gate for me to skate through. It was refreshing to feel welcome by the authorities.

Once I got into Croatia, I just explored the village streets... no agenda and no checklist of sights to see, just scoping it out... but enjoying the ride nonetheless. Lukač isn't any different than the Hungarian countryside villages, but I was happy to enjoy the peaceful sunny day to myself... well, all was peaceful until I got a little too close to this guys' rooster farm and got chased all the way down the street (about 200 meters) by the family dog. It was a smaller dog, but still got my adrenaline going...

I had no idea what this sign read when I took the photo (of course)... I simply liked the colours and the print... but, when I got home and looked it up with Google Translate, I decided I like it even more now. It reads, "Sale: pig fat and cow reactive." Classic.

I plan to return to Croatia sometime in the coming months as summer approaches. It seems to be one of the hottest tourist destinations among Europeans and I am dying to get to Plitvice Lakes National Park near the coast to see what all the chatter is about (said to be the most beautiful lake in the world). So, the Croatia adventures have just begun...

Disznóvágás: A Coutryside Custom.

2011-01-21T12:12:00.000-08:00

I wouldn't be living the real Hungarian life if I didn't dig a little... and sometimes, to discover the authentic traditions, I've got to trust the locals to show me the lay of the land (Magyar föld). This weekend, that meant getting dirty and experiencing something I've never even imagined I'd ever be part of... driving to the countryside to partake in a pig slaughter.

Since I arrived in early August, I have made it publicly-known that I am interested in learning about, seeing, and participating in all things Hungarian. I am only here for one year, and I want to experience true Eastern Europe... the people, the culture, the traditions, etc. My students keep it real, making me stand by my words... and, when two of my seniors approached me with this opportunity, I couldn't refuse. To be honest, I was sick from the notion alone, and couldn't believe I signed up for it... but there was something about the pig killing that interested me, something convinced me it was a must-see... and if I was going to see it, why not be part of it?

The Disznóvágás was in a countryside village called Somgogysárd. Peti and Máté, two of my favourite students (and recent champions of Diák Hét: Students Week as part of the 12A class) celebrate the long-standing family tradition at their grandparents farm every winter. The twins have been part of this day since they were two-years old, and have grown to look forward to the family gathering each year. I was honoured that they included me in their family heritage.

I got picked up just after six in the morning, and before seven, I had met the extended Tárkányi Family, and was engaging in the first part of the annual ritual... drinking pálinka, of course. Everyone takes part, in the drinking and in the work... from the ninety-five year-old great grandmother to the youngest of the children. Everyone has a role; the women were busy prepping, cooking, and serving up booze, while the men were outside herding the drift. Before the sun came up, we had two pigs down but still the majority of the work ahead of us...

There is no way I can write (in words) or show (with photos) what I experienced on Saturday... but I'm glad I did it. I have no interest in killing animals; I have never been hunting before and I don't even care much for fishing... but for some reason, I thought it was right that I finally saw the process for myself. Ever since seeing Food Inc. a few years back, I have thought a lot about what I eat and where it comes from. I was curious. Now, I'm still curious, but I'm happy to have gained real experience to work into my deliberation.

By the end of the morning, I was covered in mud and blood, buzzed on pálinka and forralt bor, and had a head-full of new perspective. We took a break for lunch, and it was delicious! Peti and Máté's mother made gulyás with fresh pork (the freshest pork I'll ever eat), and the women also prepared vese és agyvelő (you may or may not want to know what this is, so I'll leave it in Hungarian and you can look it up if you are truly curious and have a strong stomach), potatoes, etc. It was quite the feast and of course was followed with some delicious cakes and desserts (like any Hungarian meal).

In an effort to keep things mild, I withheld the finer details and bypassed the vivid photos... But, all in all, it was a powerful learning experience! Máté and Peti have the kindest family and they really appreciated my participation. I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to take part of such a special custom with such great people... we had a lot of laughs and enjoyed the spirit of the gathering, the company and the teamwork.

Krakow, POLAND: Ringing in the New Year.

2011-01-01T11:17:00.000-08:00

On the heels of a ten-day stint with my pops, I was naturally a bit bleary, but something told me it was a good idea to keep pushing... so, I booked a trip to Poland for the last few days of the year! I took off directly from Budapest (without going home first), on a solo mission to discover what the Poles have up their sleeves for the new year's celebration...

I flew into Warsaw and spent my first day there. The capital of Poland is big, but really not that cool. It's probably not fair to judge a city in six hours, but on first-impression, I just wasn't too excited about Warsaw. About eighty-five percent of the city was wiped out in WWII, and the communist-style reconstruction is less-than interesting. Of course, the historic Old Town is worth a visit... except if going on the twenty-ninth day of December, expect the weather to be absolutely bitter (reminiscent of the Massena, NY chill).

Nonetheless, I was able to find a kind little Polish man cooking up pierogies in the central market square in Old Town... and he made my day! I learned the perfect compliment to authentic pierogies on a frigid day is Barszcz Czerwony (Polish beetroot soup)... amazing!

Now... Kraków... wow! I flew into Katowice Wednesday afternoon and took a bus to Kraków a few hours later... and it didn't take me but a few steps off the bus to realize Kraków is rad! Still bitter cold, but there's a different feeling in the air... a city with more life and variety and charm. I was immediately pleased with my decision to spend my time here and ready to go exploring. My hostel was a simple walk from the bus station, right in the city centre, so I stopped in to drop off my pack and get my bearings. The girls at the Zodiakus Hostel are great; they were happy to show me around and point out the must-sees and must-dos for my four-day stay.

With so much on the list, I didn't have time for (or interest in) sleep, so I met the dudes staying in my room and we hit the town right away. The guys are from Brazil (São Paulo and Rio), but are currently living in Lyon, France as engineering students. We get along great; they bring the party and I bring the adventure... so, we filled our three nights with plenty of fun.

Lucky for me, one of the Brazilians (Moises) has some Polish connections from his previous studies in Germany... and, so I met his old flatmate Adam. Adam is originally from Poland and has been living in Kraków for years. He is an amazing host and gave me the inside perspective on Kraków, Polish people, and the Polish way of life. His friends were also very welcoming and I'm really grateful for my time with them. They took us to a mix of clubs and house parties, giving me the roundup of Kraków nightlife... Turns out they're on my kind of schedule; I only got back to the hostel one evening / morning while it was still dark. Spent the wee hours in a some cool places and met a lot of great people (Josefin and Maja from Uppsala, Francesco from Sienna, Mihailo and Andjela from Belgrade, and a whole lot of wonderful Poles!)...

During the days, I took off solo, trying to see as much as I could. On the first day, I explored the Main Market Square, the largest medieval town square in Europe! I went to the International Cultural Gallery to see an exhibit, British Bohemia: The Bloomsbury Circle of Virginia Woolf. Then, I got lost in the park for a while (on purpose) and finally found my way back to the Barbican at the edge of the Old Town.

On the morning of New Years Eve, I did some hiking around Wawel Hill and realized that the gothic Wawel Castle is really a whole courtyard full of structures (towers, chambers, exhibitions, dens, etc.)... it's all pretty impressive! From there, I spent some time in the Jewish Ghetto, Kazimierz. I really dig learning about the history of this district (where Schindler's List was filmed)... navigating through the labyrinthine streets and popping in and out of the underground bars, cafés, and galleries.

Last night, we ended up back in Kazimierz at an exclusive New Years Eve party with Adam and his friends. We had reservations for the back room of this typical underground restaurant in a beautiful brick-lined banquet room... I only regret not taking photos.

At around eleven, we left the underground party for the highly-anticipated and hugely-hyped Market Square celebration. Sure enough, it was outta-sight... thousands of people, live entertainment (Kelis, and American R&B artist headlined), and huge fireworks at midnight. It was quite the party (they call it Wow Night)... Na Zdrowié!

Today is my last day in Kraków, but the first day of a new year. The only thing open on New Years Day is the church, of course... the magnificent St. Mary's Basilica... what an amazing last thing to see before leaving town!

Wonderful Wien and Back to Buda.

2010-12-28T08:06:00.000-08:00

Vienna is a tall glass of class. And, Budapest is undoubtedly one of my favourite European capitals, rich in culture and character... so, I thought these would be two great cities to take my Dad on his European Holiday Tour. But, before we even left for Italy, I made sure he had a chance to visit Hungary's finest: K-Town!

Dad rolled into Kaposvár by train... just in time to drop his things off at the flat and join us at Munkácsy for the end of the term Christmas reception with all the teachers. I'm glad he got a chance to check out the school and meet some of my great colleagues. They were all very intrigued to meet him and happy to welcome him. Of course, he's easy... lots of smiling and nodding... and he knows how to drink champagne, so he fit right in. This is a pic of Greg (the other English teacher from the US, one of three Americans in the city), Dad, and Laci (great host, great storyteller, great teacher, and great Hungarian dude).

We only had one full day to experience Kaposvár, so I took him on a walking tour of the city until we were good and hungry for supper. We went to one of my favourite restaurants in town called Turul Étterem. Dad had a chance to sample some authentic Hungarian cuisine and some of the finest wine we have to offer (from the Dél-Pannónia region). Then, we hit Kossuth Square to soak up the Christmas energy and sip on some forralt bor (hot wine), naturally. Dad loves it! He couldn't stop talking about the hot wine and I couldn't stop laughing. We had fun.

Fast forward a few frames... we went from Hungary to Italy (for Christmas), and then arrived in Vienna on the twenty-sixth of December. It's pretty amazing how you can take an hour flight from southern Italy to Austria (or even just drive over the border) and be in a totally different place... I'm not just talking different language, but different fashion, attitude, architecture... it doesn't even feel like the same century! Leaving small town Sicily for fancy-time Vienna was culture shock for my Dad, but he was ready to take on a new city.

I like traveling with a variety of people; it fascinates me to see what different people are attracted to... the little things... like for my Dad: he can't get over the fact that people all over Europe listen to American music on the radio (sung in English), he has to get an authentic recipe for the Hungarian forralt bor, he can't believe the San Fratello roof tiles are held in place by rocks, he could watch the Palermo traffic jams for hours on end, and he wants to learn how they built the Vienna subway systems... I love it! I realize that even while I'm traveling and learning about people and cultures, I can learn about people and cultures by the people I'm with. There's not a better way (for me) to learn, than traveling.

I wanted to make sure we spent some time in the Museum Quarter, so we checked out the Freiraum International Quartier 21, the Leopold Museum and the Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig (MUMOK). Wow! I really dig the Leopold. I'm sure it has a lot to do with the Egon Schielle anthology (the most definitive collection of his works in the world)... he's quickly becoming one of my favourite artists from the twentieth century, but not for his skill or his content and certainly not his lifestyle... there is something compelling about the emotional intensity of his compositions and the way his lines work in new ways... I just dig it.

The Quartier 21 is cool. They had some conceptual installation work based on retro hi-fi stereo systems... you know... ovens with turntable stovetops, pumping to vintage tweed speaker cabinets mounted on spider legs climbing up walls... that kind of thing. Ha. And, the MUMOK (the Modern Art Museum) was okay. There was a lot of work there, but only one floor was really that hot. There were some hip Warhol pieces and a stare of rad colour lithographs from some Argentinian printmakers.

To close out the Vienna experience, we decided to got to a concert at the Orangerie Schönbrunn (at the Schloss Schönbrunn Palace). We saw Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte, featuring the works of Mozart and Johann Strauss (two of the many many many world-famous classical composers from Vienna). The performance was complete with full orchestra, conductor, and even some oprea singers and dancers for some pieces. Cool show.

Before Dad bolted for the big apple, I took him around BP for a day... and we ran into some great fun. Sure, I took him to Hero Square, and down the iconic Andrássy út, etc. but we also went to some spots I've yet to visit. I finally took advantage of the world-famous thermal baths of Hungary, and brought Dad to Szécsényi Fürdö, the most highly-regarded of all the bath houses in the country!

Wow, I no longer need to wonder why this place gets such incredible attention. People have been telling me to go to the Szécsényi Spa since I moved to Hungary, and now I see what all the fuss is about. I'm just glad I waited until winter, because I can't imagine it's ever as cool as this. When the snow started falling, it was simple paradise... landlocked paradise...

Finally, after the thermal spa, we got bundled up to brave the cold and I showed Dad a typical Hungarian combo... something I've grown to love a lot: a Soproni (local session beer) and a lángos (fried Hungarian flatbread).

Eventually, we settled in at the Delirium Tremens Sailor Inn on the Danube for our final meal together. We feasted on top-notch traditional Hungarian cuisine (gulyash, lecsó, stuffed cabbage) and tasty Belgian beers... great way to round out the visit with my pops...

Sicily, ITALY: Digging up Family Roots.

2010-12-25T23:16:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately, I had to wait an extra day than originally planned to see my first visitor... and even more unfortunate, is the fact that my poor father got mixed up in the weather woes and disrupted travel at the Charles de Gaulle Airport (in Paris). But after a series of flight delays, lost luggage, a missed train connection, and an unexpected night's stay in Budapest, dad finally showed up in Kaposvár on the twenty-first and we had a few great days to hang in Hungary (details to appear in an ensuing post) before heading off to Sicily for Christmas!

Yes. Sicily for Christmas... my father and I... exploring the origin of the Scaglione roots: the land, the people, the food, the language... all things Italian... I was more than a bit excited to arrive and still get psyched thinking about how special this experience is. Being set in the thick of winter now for over a month, I welcomed the Mediterranean climate and the taste of paradise offered by the sea.

We flew in and out of Palermo, and stayed at a trendy newfangled joint right in the city center. The place was great and the location was perfect. That being said... the first night, we were out for pizza late in the evening / morning... and as we walked back into the hotel (3:23) we heard two blatant gun shots fired outside. We looked at each other and then at the receptionist, and he visibly scrambled to make us feel more comfortable... telling us it was some kids setting off fireworks. Ha. Oh well, this is Palermo. I dig it, for the whole experience. (Now I know why everyone kept joking with us on our travels to Palermo about going 'prepared', etc.). It's not a particularly clean city, but is still beautiful! Similar to Rome or Pittsburgh or Toronto... there is resident charm that keeps them attractive.

So, we woke in Palermo on Christmas Eve and headed out exploring right away. The first thing we did was walk to the water. It was a bit hazy, but still cool to see the palms and feel the influence of the sea. As we walked the perimeter of the city and then started zig-zagging through the streets to catch the main sights, we were constantly amazed by the driving. Driving in Palermo is a complete mess... a refined system of organized chaos. There must be accidents everyday, but we didn't see any (several just-misses though)... dad was so intrigued by it, he wanted to just sit by the park and watch the traffic for an hour. He loves it (weirdo New Yorker).

Evening rolled around and we got duded up for Christmas Eve mass at S.S. Pietro e Paolo. It is a gorgeous old Catholic Church, filled with all the adornments of Christmas and holiday celebrations... except people. I was surprised; the church was only about thirty percent filled and it seemed to be a bit less structured than the typical Catholic mass I grew up with. Still, it was nice to be there and with my dad for Christmas Eve. Afterward, we went out for some pasta and pesce.

Christmas morning never felt so different, while still feeling exciting. I've had my share of less-than-great Christmas seasons the last few years, but this experience was sure to be new and I have been looking forward to it for a while now. Of course, I didn't wake up with Sherrie, Krissie, and Joey (and I miss that), and I didn't look out the window to see a blanket of snow (that's nice too)... but today we went to the town that Papa Ferdinand grew up (my Papa's father): a little town at the top of a mountain, overlooking the sea, called San Fratello!

First thing's first... it's raining and someone stole the wipers off our rental car in the night, so we had to get some new ones... but that was a quick fix (especially for Christmas Day), so no big deal. Finally, we hit the road... Lucky for us, we took the A19/20 all along the northern coast of Sicily, hugging the mountains and the sea... heading towards Messina. Neither of us had any idea that this drive was going to be so beautiful, but totally impressed by the unknown...

Two hours later, we arrived a top the long and winding road at a small town with a sign welcoming us to San Fratello. The first thing we did was visit the cemetery. We went searching for our family name, specifically Papa Ferdinand's father, Papa Toto (Salvatore Scaglione). Although we found plenty of Scaglione's and even some Salvatore Scaglione's, we're not sure that any matched the dates and names of our family tree research... but it was special nonetheless to be surrounded by our family name and see such authentic ornamentation in small town Sicily.

The sea never looked as clear and beautiful as it did from the top of San Fratello. We had so many things we wanted to explore and see, but we kept being drawn to the coastal view. Once we left the cemetery, we drove to the 'center' of the town... really, nothing more than a simple square with a couple of closed shops (it's Christmas after all) and a municipal building. Of course, English is more foreign in San Fratello than Hungarian is in Denver... but the people were so kind and we were able to communicate our message and mission well enough with our extremely limited Italian and our exuberant hand gestures (really, we could speak Italian without saying a word)...

The first man we met understood who we were and why we were there. We had the address of the old Scaglione Family house, but he wasn't sure exactly where it was (turns out, it's kind of a hidden street with no street sign). But, he was determined to get us there. He was a sharp-dressed well-to-do man, who seemingly knew EVERY person in the town. So, he just stood in the street and everybody that passed by (by car, by foot, by bike), he stopped and asked how to get to Stesicorea. Finally he called for a younger boy across the street and simply gave him instructions to guide us to the house... and, as a respectable kid would, he gladly concurred. Not speaking a single word of English, we headed out on a journey with our San Fratello tour guide until we, at last, discovered the street and the house... number 44 (of course, my father's obsession).

The house is amazing. It's huge; originally it spanned half the block (the rugged off-track block that is), but has since been divided into several flats. Papa Toto and Mama Mariannia and all of the kids have passed away and I'm not sure if any of our Scaglione line still lives in town, but we were able to see this family monument and it was pretty special!

We spent the next few hours wandering the streets, making it up and down each and every one... For Dad, it was a total shock to see present-day living conditions in this state... and I understand. Until you visit a small town like this, far away from any tourist spots, in a place far away from the United States... one would never believe that they even exist. The buildings are dilapidated and many have been condemned (or should be, including our house on Stesicorea). The larger of the two churches in San Fratello, St. Nicola (that was designed by Mama Mariannia's cousin), was unfortunately shut down... it's simply falling apart (check out the crack in the side of the building) and there are no resources to piece things back together in this town. It makes me awfully appreciative for the opportunities and fortunes I have, and grateful for the perspective gained by visiting places like San Fratello.

The last place we visited was the smaller church at the top of the town, Ave Maria Church... and we actually walked up, by chance, ten minutes before the Christmas Mass... so we were able to stay and experience this intimate San Fratello mass. This sixty-four seat church was the real deal and people were standing all along the back, decked-out and packed-in for Christmas... this is the flavour we were looking for in Palermo but couldn't find it. Here it is, right in San Fratello! After mass, we drove down to sea level and discovered San' Agata, the largest city in the area. We had our last Sicilian meal and walked around the city, until we headed back to Palermo. The trip to Sicily with my old man (though, still not even fifty) is a trip that won't be forgotten.

Kossuth Square: White Christmas Week

2010-12-19T23:09:00.000-08:00

Kossuth Square (downtown K-Town) is in full holiday modus... people are bustling around and it's lit up like a, well, like a Christmas tree. I went down to meet Greg and Danielle tonight for some forralt bor and, what turned into, a bit of a snow battle. The hot wine, a traditional Hungarian wintertime favourite, was the perfect antithesis for the soaked mittens and canvas Vans; I was warm as toast...

I'm getting really excited to host my first international visitor; tomorrow my pops comes to celebrate Christmas with me... it's going to be great!

Munkácsy Christmas Concert.

2010-12-15T12:17:00.000-08:00

So, somehow, word got out that I don't know how to say no... and before I knew it, I was convinced to join the Teacher Choir and perform at the Munkácsy Christmas Concert. As if I haven't been busy enough, I've been in choir rehearsals before and after school for the past couple weeks... working on my Hungarian and French!

The concert was Monday night in the school atrium. The student choir sounded incredible (and they even got to sing in English... lucky). Not us. Here is my phonetic charting for one of the Hungarian songs: Kicsi Gyermek... pretty entertaining for my Hungarian colleagues.

And, at the end of last week, Mikolas (Hungarian Santa Claus) came to the school, bringing treats for all of the teacher's children... kind of like Wheat Ridge's Trick-or-Treat Street. This is hilariously cute though... the kids have to sing Santa Claus a song in order to get a reward.

Vienna, AUSTRIA: A Winter Wonderland.

2010-12-12T04:30:00.000-08:00

An opportunity... to check out a new spot, to meet up with the Fulbright crew from Czech Republic, and to enjoy some time in the snow around the holidays... done and done. Ever since I visited Innsbruck in the summer of oh-nine, I have wanted to return to Austria... and finally, this weekend, I was able to make it to Vienna! From what I hear, there isn't a better time to visit than Christmas... the energy is high, the city is adorned with all the holiday flair, and the Christmas Market is said to be the best in all of Europe!

The highlight of the city is, without a doubt, the copious representation of world-class modern art. Vienna is the home of some of my favourite artists of all-time, most notably Gustav Klimt. Klimt, the first president of the Vienna Secession movement, created an eminent frontier between figurative and non-figurative... a model that continues to inspire artists, like myself, over a hundred years after the height of his career.

I have waited a long time to see such an incredible archive of his work... and I finally got the chance to visit the highly-revered Belvedere! The Belvedere Palace is absolutely amazing... from the architecture to the landscaped gardens to the collection, it proved to be an easy way to spend the better part of a day in Vienna. Of course, I had to purchase the combination ticket to see the new contemporary exhibition in the lower Belvedere, in addition to the classics collection in the upper Belvedere.

The upper galleries showcased breathtaking work from Klimt, Schiele, Messerschmidt, and Kokoschka... including the one-and-only Der Kuss (The Kiss). I 'accidentally' snapped a photo of (part of) the masterpiece during my ten-minute inquisition... I was amazed that I was able to view The Kiss in the company of only about four or five other people, but when I was in the Louvre a couple years ago, there was never a moment that the Mona Lisa could be seen by any less than thirty people at one time... and The Kiss is every bit as spectacular (and it's a whole lot cooler).

The lower galleries showcased temporary exhibitions by Valie Export, a leading contemporary Austrian artist... and works of Auguste Rodin, exposing his relationship with Vienna.

I also had the opportunity to visit the Albertina at a perfect time! There were exhibitions of four legendary artists: Michelangelo (The Drawings of a Genius), Picasso (Peace and Freedom), Herbert Brandl (Mountains and Landscapes Monotypes), William Kentridge (Five Themes). It was a great balance of classics and avant-garde. Although I had just seen this Kentridge collection a couple years ago in Tampa, it was good to see it again with new experience (and after I had a chance to explore his work more with my students in Studio 23). The Brandl stuff was pretty rad, and the Michelangelo work was nothing less than spectaular (as I expected). The Picasso collection wasn't nearly as impressive as the selection I saw in Copenhagen a few weeks ago, but was worthwhile anyway.

After two half-days in the museum, I was ready to spend some time outside exploring the city (although I look forward to returning to Vienna to get back to some of the museums I didn't hit in the Museum Quarter)... I met up with the Fulbright gang and enjoyed some Puncs (hot spiced boozy cider) while we fought off the Christmas crowds in the central market. I appreciate the culture and the appeal of the Christmas markets (and I do agree that this one in Vienna is awfully grand), but I still prefer the applied art markets featuring local artists making unique crafts (like the WAMP Design Market in Budapest and the Holiday Handmade Craft Fair in Denver).

On the last night in Vienna, we went to the Austian-authentic Centimeter and ate schnitzel and pork chops off a sword; it was like a medieval shish-ka-bob... righteous. Then, we hopped around a couple different bars, finally landing at this swanky little joint by our place for some evening-ending White Russians... I dig Vienna. Good thing, because it's close to 'home'... and they have a much better scene for the arts and hip concerts than Budapest... so, I'll return soon...

Oh, on the way to Vienna, I made my habitual stop-over in Budapest... and I went with my friends Matyi and István to Dürer Kert to see DJ Premier's special dedication gig to his late great partner MC Guru. The show opened with some Hungarian hip hop outfits, including the hottest disc jockey in the state: DJ Dice. And, then Primo came out and thew down the 'real hip hop' for almost two hours... highlighting his work with Guru and Gang Starr, of course... but also working in plenty of other classics he's done with Biggie, Tribe, Nas, Jay-Z, Mos-Def, etc. The jams were hot and the club was packed... a good way to kick off my weekend ramble...

A few final photos of the beautiful classic Wiener architecture...

Is Fwanky a Gwown-Up?

2010-12-05T23:45:00.000-08:00

Little Maisie made my day today... and so now, she's making my blog! David and Stephanie's youngest daughter Maisie (age 7) asked her mom a very good question on the train to Budapest this morning, "Momma, is Franky a grown-up?" Stephanie just laughed and asked her why... and Maisie replied, "because grown-ups are boring and Franky always wants to have fun." Well, thank you Maisie; I appreciate your recognition. And, to answer your question... no, of course Franky's not a grown-up. Franky will never grow-up. He may be an adult, but he's far from grown-up... his curious hyperactive spirit won't allow it... kind of like his pup Luna!

Let It Snow: Pest in Pictures.

2010-12-05T23:34:00.000-08:00

I went to Budapest this past weekend and enjoyed my first Hungarian snowfall... I love that it's finally beginning to look a lot like Christmas around here! I had a few things on my Budapest agenda this weekend; per the usual, they included live music, art exhibitions, and local attractions.

Thursday: Caribou at the Gödör Klub.
I've been a longtime listener, but never had a chance to check out Caribou in North America... but as the world has it, now that I'm living in Europe, I'm getting the opportunity to see Daniel Snaith and company, who hail from Ontario, Canada. I was psyched, not only to see Caribou, but to finally catch up with my friend Valeria, who I always seem to miss when I go to BP... we met up and bounced around a few places to pre-game before landing at the Gödör Klub in time to catch the last opening act, DJ Bootsie Quartet (from Budapest). They were pretty groovy... an eclectic mix with horns, drum and bass, and a helluva turntablist.

The bill headliner was well worth the wait... Caribou took the stage and played a high-energy packed set for the Budapest hipsters (a scene I have really yet to notice). Caribou coloured the evening with work from all of their LPs, in addition to their dynamic video projections. For much of the set, Daniel led the group from behind a percussion setup... adding brilliant layers of rhythmic goodness to the ill Brad Weber beats that set the foundation.

Somehow, I talked my way into the photo pit (with my mashed up and broken Hungarian)... I acted like I was supposed to be there and snagged some shots. And, after the show, I had a chance to say hi to Dan the man.

Friday: The Parliament and Ethnogrophy Museum and Christmas Market and Kiado Kocsma.
*Plenty to write about but crunched for time in the holiday hustle... so I'll post the photos for now and revisit the WORDS when I get a chance...

Saturday: Applied Art Museum and Christmas Design Fair.
One of the most stunning Art Nouveau buildings in the world, the Applied Art Museum in Budapest, houses some pretty impressive work inside as well. I got a chance to check out a contemporary exhibit called Realized Works: a collection emphasizing the use of light in various aspect of the creative process...

Paper Tiger: Trying a Trabant.

2010-12-02T03:20:00.000-08:00

Just recently, I was stripped of my vehicle in Hungary and forced to shop for a new car... I don't need a car for the day-to-day, but for my impulse travel... it's pretty important. For the last few weeks, I have been searching high and low for just the right vintage classic to be my transportation sidekick (for weather and distances the skateboard can't hang with). I'm not interested in a fancy looker with a shiny paint job, or a speed racer that will get me to Budapest in under an hour... just something with a little style... something I can't find in the States. Well, finally, last week, I found an outlet... my colleague's husband's friend's brother has a TRABANT.

He owns a used car dealership and this Trabi sits right in my price range, and with just a funky enough character to peak my interest. Since I started looking, I've been eyeing Trabants, Ladas, and Fiats... and EVERYBODY I've talked to has warned me about the Trabant. They say the East German disasters are always breaking down and can't top 80 kilometres / hour (about 50 mph). Well, right they may be, but I was determined to find out for myself.

The Internet listing boasts "Friss műszaki; kifogástalan műszaki állapot!" (meaning: Recent technical inspection; in perfect technical condition!) So, I met the Trabant Tuesday night at my flat and gave it a drive. The car, made of Duroplast (recylcled paper / plastic), is definitely different than any other vehicle I've ever driven in my life... that's for sure! I knew pretty quickly that it wasn't going to get me to Zurich or Berlin, but I still hoped it could function as a local hooptie. Despite the shaky drive, I considered it for a fun jalopy to take around town and to Budapest and back for the next seven months. So, I asked if I could see it Wednesday, in the daylight.

The next morning, I met the guy at the Sportcsarnok and he told me to drive it for the day and let him know what I think in the evening. Well... that sounded great. So, I hopped in the not-so-trusty Trabi and attempted to fire it up. No dice. After about five minutes, I got it to start and I drove it one kilometer to my flat. I ran upstairs to grab my recyclables, but decided to keep the car running to avoid the startup issues again. I drove to drop off my recyclables and get some groceries at the local market. I pulled into Tesco and went shopping for about an hour. I came out and loaded the cart full of groceries into the Trabant... I went to start it up, and... nothing. It wouldn't even turn over. The Trabi was dead. I just laughed and thought... wow, I originally thought this was something I could potentially drive to France, and I found out I can't even drive it three-kilometres roundtrip to the grocery store and back home.

Oh well, the search continues... (I had to leave the Trabant in the parking lot, catch a cab home with all the groceries, and hustle to make it to school on time)

International Arts Connect: ATC Workshop.

2010-11-28T02:36:00.000-08:00

I just completed my first workshop as part of the Fine Arts Faculty of Kapsovár University. I offered International Arts Connect as an opportunity to experiment and expand creativity beyond borders... literally. I wanted to create an exchange program for university art students to communicate internationally, sharing their ideas with artists on the other side of the world... gaining perspective, stimulating interests, and building artistic relationships!

The room was filled with enthusiastic artists, ephemera, and a collage of music. The fundamental goal of my alternative arts curriculum is mentoring students to communicate ordinary concepts in extraordinary ways... to experiment with problems until fresh solutions emerge. For the intensive two-day workshop, the studio classroom transformed into a laboratory for exploring ideas.

Each artist created an original collection of Artist Trading Cards (ATCs)... trying new processes and new media to craft nine small unique works of art within assigned themes. Simultaneously, I have been working with university art students in the United States to create similar works with the same prompts. Now, I am busy collecting the art from all of the participants (both in the US and from the students at Kaposvár University), and I will facilitate an exchange between the artists. At the end of the project, each student will receive a new set of cards created by international artists!

*I have also created a supplemental programme at the high school level... students from my Alternative Art Klub (here in Kaposvár, at Munkácsy Mihály Gimnázium) made sets of ATCs to exchange with my students in Studio 23 (back in Colorado, at Wheat Ridge High School). In all, there will be over seventy artists involved in the international art exchanges! [Pictured is an exhibition of the 200 ATCs created by the Alternative Art Klub at Munkácsy]

Újhold: New Moon Thanksgiving.

2010-11-25T23:27:00.000-08:00

I was skating home from school yesterday, and in the middle of the Penny Market parking lot, I was stopped by a beautiful Hungarian Vizsla wandering the lot, all by herself... with no owner and no clue. I was concerned that the poor pup would be hit by a car, and furthermore, I wondered where she lived? I hopped off my board and got down on a knee... I kind of thought she'd just scamper away or bark at me (like most of the dogs in Hungary), but I tried to pet her anyway... this dog was different; she came right over to me and offered me her affection. I'm a sucker for dogs, especially Vizslas, and this one immediately had me hooked...

I stayed at Penny for twenty-something minutes, trying to find an owner, but nobody came looking and her collar had no information. I couldn't leave her there. She was clean and seemed healthy, but had no place to go. Unfortunately, I can't have a dog in my flat, but I needed to help her. We instantly bonded; she followed me everywhere I went... I named her Újhold (new moon), and call her Új for short.

I brought her back to the block of flats I am living, and let her run in the yard while I ran upstairs to find some food and a make-shift leash. All I could find was some Pick Salami (famous Hungarian salami from Szeged). When I went back outside she was so happy to see that I had food... the leash wasn't important as long as I could coax her with salami. I had to find her home or at least, a temporary place to stay... I convinced my friends Greg and Danielle (from Minnesota) to let Új stay with them for the night, but only for one night.

I woke up today with one goal in mind: finding a home for this dog, at least a temporary one... there was no way I was going to send her back to the streets. I went by their flat this morning and checked on Új. She was just as sweet as I remembered her and I received a good report from her stay with my friends. I went to school and started talking with all of my students... explaining my dilemma and looking for help. After school, one of my students Csanad (and his father Ádam) drove Új and I to the local vet. We thought that she may have a microchip, but unfortunately 'nincs.' We called the radio station to announce the lost dog. And, the radio station put us in contact with a shelter who heard from the owner... we found Új's home!

It was such a great feeling, but at the same time, I really enjoyed bonding with this wonderful little Vizsla. When we returned the dog to her owner, we learned that her proper given name is Lana... yes, Lana, as in one letter off of Luna! The owner was very grateful and incredibly relieved to have her Vizsla back. I already miss her, but am just happy she's cared for again.

But as sweet as 'New Moon' is, the truth is: there's no moon like my moon. Today, on Thanksgiving I realize how thankful I am to have the best dog alive, and how grateful I am to have Bryan and Sarah looking after her while I live in Europe for the year. I'm thankful for much more too, but of course, I can't get Luna out of my mind today.

As for dinner tonight... it was nice, humble and improvised... certainly not the Thanksgiving I am used to... with twenty-plus amazing friends (The Denver Family) in a big log cabin in Breckenridge, snowboarding all day followed by a warm-up in the hot tub under the falling snow, eating and drinking without limits, and wrestling in the snow with Luna... ah, fond memories... (this is the first time in six years I wasn't in Breck for Thanksgiving)...

Malmö, SWEDEN: Supporting My Swede Tooth.

2010-11-07T15:11:00.000-08:00

Although I never made it to a hockey game, I did eat 600 grams of Swedish Fish.

In the shadows of Copenhagen sits a beautiful Swedish compliment... just over the Øresund Bridge, Malmö is a hip city of it's own!

Money is getting thin (even my credit card is questioning me) and Scandinavia is not the place to be when cash is a concern. I've spent more cheddar in the last two days than I have on the rest of the trip (eight days) combined! Fortunately, the travel is really cheap around Europe right now... I really can't afford NOT to be seeing as much as I can. For example, my flight home to Budapest tomorrow (from Malmö, Sweden) is $31 USD including all taxes and fees!

So, adventure meets Sweden... Lucky for us, Kent has a friend studying at Malmö University and she took the day off to show us around. Yuliya is awesome; she wanted to show us every possible sight in the city and we weren't going to stop her. From the train station, we took off by foot for a day in (and around) Malmö. First we got the tour and some history of the city centre and then ventured out to Västerbron.

On the way, we walked through Kings Park, a beautiful cemetary with English landscape design and big beautiful autumn colours... then, along the water to the wide-open Baltic Sea. On our way back we walked right up to the base of the Turning Torso (the tallest building in all of Scandinavia, and the tallest residential space in the European Union). It is a remarkable building and is surrounded by a mote, like most remarkable buildings...

I had really hoped to catch a Malmö Redhawks game. I'm not going to be able to catch too much live hockey this year, (and what I see in Hungary will be second-rate, at best)... so I was hoping to watch a game while in Scandinavia. Unfortunately, all of the home teams (Helsinki, Copenhagen, and Malmö) are away this week. Oh well, I soon stumbled on an opportune surprise...

As the sun was setting, we rolled back into downtown. I was floating around the big centre square looking at people and posters and patterns in the pavement... and something caught my eye! Among the dozens of brightly coloured posters and ads on the bulletin board was a simple black poster that said Ratatat. I looked closer and realized that, of all nights, of all places... they were playing here in Malmö tonight! And, even crazier yet, I found out that this date was added as a special intimate venue gig to open their world tour... and the show was free to the first three-hundred people.

I left Kent and Yuliya and went looking for the venue to get the scoop... I soon found this little club called the Debaser about a kilometre from the city centre. Of course, it was locked, and there was no information on tickets, set times, etc. But, I went around back and there was one dude outside having a smoke... I started chatting with him and we heard Ratatat take the stage for soundcheck. Kim and I stood out back and bullshitted about art and music and life. He is a super interesting guy... he's from Norway, but lived in NYC for a few years and is now getting his doctorate in some rare choreography program in Stockholm. Well, after talking with him for about ten minutes, I finally discover that he's the opening act for Ratatat.

Fast forward a few hours later... I was with some new friends (Sabina from Copenhagen, Charlese from Paris, and Cody from Calgary, Nathan from Vancouver) in the swanky Debaser getting ready for a free Ratatat show! (The only bummer was that by the time Kent, Emily, and Yuliya arrived, the line was around the block and they weren't letting anyone else in. As I understand it though, they had fun at a university party on their own...)

Kim Hiorthoy rocked the opening DJ slot... dancing, jumping around, laying down the beats, and getting the party started. By the time Ratatat took the stage, the place was amped and luckily they came to play! Honestly, they were one of the most high-energy live acts I've ever seen. The set was clearly orchestrated and precisely mapped out, but they killed it!

Oh, and that wasn't an exaggeration about the candy... I'm a sucker for Swedish fish, so I bellied up to the bulk bin and filled my sack with 600 grams of gummy goodness... and ate every last one!

Copenhagen, DENMARK: City of Cyclists.

2010-11-06T15:11:00.000-07:00

Taking another huge jump from the Baltics back to Scandinavia, Denmark opened up a world of colour! I really dig Copenhagen...

From the time I touched base in Denmark (even in the airport), I realized it's a high-class place with plenty of opportunities... an eco-friendly city with friendly faces and perfect English... kind of reminds me of Denver (but twice the size and twice the price)...

Once we got checked into the hostel, and ready to hit the road, I overheard some people talking about the first-ever exhibition of The Brazil Series by Bob Dylan... here in Copenhagen, right now at Denmark's National Gallery: Statens Museum for Kunst. Upon further investigation, I found out that they also are running a special Picasso exhibit called Tales From the Labyrinth... I had to go... and so I did. I got there on the late side, and they weren't going to let me in... but I met the sweetest lady at the reception, and after a short chat with her, she let me view the exhibits and even gave me a comp ticket, waiving the 95 Kroner admission (about twenty bucks). I was so thankful, because the exhibition was sick. The Dylan stuff was surprisingly pretty damn cool... I had no idea he was such a prolific painter (on top of being one of the greatest songsters of our time). But, it was the Picasso exhibition that wowed me... this time, it was a collection of 100 intaglio prints of his from 1930-37... truly genius.

After the Danish Gallery, I headed back into the Kongens Nytorv area... it was bustling with bikes and people and bikes and bikes. It's a beautiful sight: from the well-to-do business folk to the tree-hugging hipsters, everyone rides bikes! Apparently, an impressive 37 percent of workers commute to their jobs by bike EVERYDAY in Copenhagen... and thus it is considered by many to be the number one bike city in the world! It consistently ranks among the top of all polls with Amsterdam, Boulder, Portland, Berlin, and Basil. The bicycle infrastructure is extensive and well-traveled, with it's own signal systems and traffic lanes. Oh, and for visitors and people waiting out repairs... Copenhagen boasts the most successful community bicycle program in the world as well... it is easy to rent (borrow, really, with a refundable deposit of 20 Kroner) a bike for free!

I ambled through town and soon wound up at this little joint called Cafe Paludan for an art opening called Black Pop. The space was beautiful and the work was impressive. I felt a bit out-of-place though, with the fancy folk chumming it up in centre city. I needed to venture a bit off the main drag to see what else Copenhagen could reveal.

I met up with Emily and Kent for some Thai food (yes, Thai, and it was delicious!) over on Nyhavn Street, the famous canal street lined with brightly coloured cafés, bars, and restaurants... beautiful.

There is one city neighborhood that is completely car-free... the notorious commune Christiania. Now, this is a special place. Kent and I went to check it out our first night in Copenhagen, and that's definitely the time to visit to catch it in full effect! The legend of Christiania, known for it's art and human diversity, is remarkable... it was founded in 1971 by a group of hippies who took over an abandoned military barracks and developed their own set of rules, completely independent of the Danish government... and somehow the people are able to keep it, as is, still today. Supposedly, this little freetown in the heart of Copenhagen is not considered part of the European Union. Unfortunately, they don't allow photos, so I wasn't able to document what I saw, but it was a trip...

Vilnius, LITHUANIA: The Fluxus Capital.

2010-11-05T15:07:00.000-07:00

As I head out on my solo mission today, I am at ease... Three months into a yearlong Hungarian residency, and seven days into an eleven-day tour through Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, I feel like I am where I need to be.

I have no expectations for Vilnius... Going in, all I really know about Lithuania is that the Grateful Dead sponsored their Olympic basketball team in the early nineties... seems like pretty shallow knowledge of a country, but I'm ready to learn now... I never got into history classes (unfortunately I never had Mrs. Rossi when I was in high school); I could barely stay focused in art history class which actually interested me. However, now I'm discovering that I love learning history and it's influence on culture... but only by traveling and building personal relationships with the people and the places!

Naturally, my first stop was the CAC [Contemporary Art Centre]: the largest venue for contemporary art in the Baltic States (2400 sq. metres). It was grand, though it didn't boast near the quality of the Riga Art Centre. However, there were two spots totally worth my time... the Fluxus Cabinet and the Reading Room.

I remember this concept of fluxus art, but only vaguely. Well, by the end of my time in the museum, I'm totally schooled on the international movement (it's presence, it's practices, it's history, it's impact) and yet I'm more confused than ever. Talk about a long strange trip into another dimension... wow!

So, Lithuanian-born George Maciunas is said to be the fundamental founder of the movement (and is also referred to as the pioneer of NYC's SoHo district), thus the prominence of flux art in the city. Primarily influenced by John Cage's experimental music composition classes and other avant-garde artists from the sixties, I get the weirdness. It's about making sense out of nonsense. Make sense? Anyway, I went to the Reading Room (similar to the Open Shelf Library at Denver's MCA) to dig deeper... and found myself magnetized to this book: Fluxus Codex. Finally, I put it down and headed back out into the real world. Before I left, I met this girl in the museum lobby who told me about a really special arts initiative in town that I had to check out... and so, of course, I did.

She gave me directions to this huge building in the city centre, once the Ministry of Health... now the Ministry of Fluxus. I wandered in, by myself, not really knowing what exactly happens there... and just started looking around. There wasn't anyone really around, but I was totally intrigued by what I saw... floors upon floors of open art spaces, studios, foosball, and even a little axillary skatepark room with a halfpipe... wow. I just kept going up the stairs, poking around all of these studios, etc. until I made my way to the fifth floor where I finally found someone to talk to.

I met this cool girl named Eglė, a local artist and member of the Fluxus Ministerija project... She turned out to be the perfect person to meet! She was working on her wall piece (this psychedelic op-art installation), but was psyched to take a break and show me around. She gave me the grand tour of the place, stopping in to meet some resident artists and get the history of the joint.

Basically (as I understand it)... Eglė and 26 other local artists contacted a grip of people in the community to help support an arts cooperative in Vilnius. They heard back from only guy... this rich politician in the city with access to the Ministry of Health, an old unused building with plenty of creative possibility. They pitched him a grand plan and he went for it... thus the project was born. It is a ridiculous space. Eglė took me down to the cellar and showed me the secret tunnels and underground passageways... definitely things I didn't expect to see in Vilnius on my one day in town... but just fortunate to meet such kind people.

She also invited me to a private party at the coop tonight with the grand opening of the bar and music hall on the main floor. There was no way I'd miss it. I saw three Lithuanian acts, all members of the Fluxus Ministry... Saulė (an original hiphop duo, hilarious and smooth... like a young local 3Oh!3), Tofu Eueele (neo-pop soul with horns, nice), and a groove DJ (kinda like a Lithuanian St. Germain)...

Riga, LATVIA: Art Nouveau Niche.

2010-11-04T15:00:00.000-07:00

It's amazing to travel one hour by plane and feel like I'm in a different world. Perhaps it was the steady afternoon rain, perhaps it was the lack of English spoken, perhaps it's the fact it came on the heels of the Tallinn visit... but Riga didn't have the same charm we felt in Estonia...

Latvia, though no further east than Estonia, puts me back in the Eastern Europe state of mind. When we got off the bus in the city centre, we were funneled into a huge open air flea market, similar to those of Hungary and Romania. It's the real world... there's no faking it. This is the way people live; I appreciate that I have the opportunity to see, smell, hear, taste, and feel the personality of the world through travel and the quest to explore cultural sociology. Differences are cool.

There is no doubt about it though... Riga is up there with the most architecturally stunning places I've ever visited (up there with Paris and Berlin)! When the Art Nouveau movement reached it's peak in the early 20th Century in Europe, Riga was leading the way with flowing lines and geometrical ornaments. I wasn't able to take such great shots of the buildings as dusk settled in and the rain was soaking me (and my camera)... so these few photos are just googled images of the buildings I saw...

Beyond the architecture, there were a few notable art galleries I went to, surprising me with their modern flavours... The Riga Art Space was the best of them.

Rīgas Mākslas Telpa (Riga Art Space) is the coolest contemporary art venue I've seen in a long time! I spent a couple of hours in this underground multifunctional art hall (beneath the Riga City Council building)... just exploring... discovering artists and cutting edge style from across the Baltics... and stayed out of the rain too. Riga Art Space turned me on to some pretty incredible artists like Klāra Grundšteine (hilarious video animation: Bezfilma) and Elīna Zunde (gorgeous composition layers and figural juxtaposition: Tenderness). I was totally inspired and shocked to see such a leading contemporary art space in such an old world-feeling society.

All in all, Riga is fine. I like it, but I'm not sure I love it. Definitely worth the trip though... just for the architecture and Riga Art Space!

Tallinn, ESTONIA: The Hidden Treasure.

2010-11-03T01:52:00.000-07:00

Wow! Visiting eight countries in eleven days can blur the ethos of the cities, but there is one city that will stand out as my favourite from this tour: Tallinn. Tallinn has an old-world look with cutting-edge freshness and the art and culture scene is taking off! It's obviously Europe's hidden treasure; I'm just happy to uncover it for myself...

Situated in the northeast corner of the Baltic Sea, Estonia is just a couple hours by ferry from Helsinki. We took the bright and early, ride-in-style, across the Gulf of Finland... arrived at 9:00 and hit the town right away! This is the first shoppe I saw... seems awfully convenient...

On the ferry ride over, I scanned the net for contemporary art spots in Tallinn (as I do for every city I visit)... I've found that digging up the arts scene and meeting the locals are the best ways for me to get the most out of a city. For the rest of the trip, I made it a point to head out on my own each day to hit these marks. Kent and Emily make great travel partners; especially because they understand my wandering spirit and know there is no way to repress it... so, they take off doing their thing and leave me to do mine. They dig the historical peripheral and I want to learn from the random meetings of interesting people in interesting places. Anyhow, it's great how we can appreciate each other's interests / learning styles and it makes for pretty interesting exchanges each night when we meet up for supper.

So, in my quest to seek contemporary art in Tallinn, I stumbled upon the Sally Stuudio: a non-profit organization with a mission in perfect parallel to my perspective on art education! Their purpose: "to educate young people to become future competent creators and consumers of art and to promote a better understanding of art amongst adults." It's utopian, but it's simple. I asked around and finally found someone to lead me to this little schoolhouse studio off the main drag in old-town.

I walked in and introduced myself, expressing my appreciation for their vision. It's so important to help young people understand the presence of contemporary art in our modern world and to open doors for them to see the possibilities to express themselves in it! And, the people at the Sally Art School get it. It's great. They showed me around and gave me some information on some really rad programmes they're organizing in conjunction with Tallinn 2011: The European Capital of Culture! The newest initiative is called Eksperimenta!: "application of art to education of young people and to their development into creative, critically thinking and responsible persons and citizens." This is a page from a book that one of the kids made. I think it's brilliant.

In my one day in Tallinn, I discovered several creative outlets for young artists... totally refreshing! This is an after-school school for pottery and sculpture. I just love that people understand the importance of art education in Tallinn, and furthermore the importance of encouraging creative minds to grow... So, it makes sense... European Culture Capital 2010 is Pécs (Hungary), 2011 is Tallinn (Estonia).

So, Estonia... Eastern Europe? No way. Estonia, the most northern of the Baltic States, may geographically sit in the eastern region of the continent... but it's a world apart socially. Far beyond obvious differences that suggest cultural maturity (like the fact that everyone speaks English), I learned that Estonia is a European leader in Information Technology... people pay for tram tickets and parking validation with text messages, the city is covered with free WiFi, and is the birthplace of Skype!

It didn't matter that I was waking up at 4:40 the next morning to catch a flight to Riga... I had to go out and check out Tallinn's evening style... Kent and Emily headed back to the hotel and I found a joint on the edge of the old town called the Music Bar to hang for a while. I had a drink, talked with some Tuesday-night locals, kicked it in the big red velvet chairs, and watched a Moby video (from Glastonbury)... pretty chill way to close a good day in great city... See you soon Tallinn...

Helsinki, FINLAND: Scandinavian Introduction.

2010-11-02T02:47:00.000-07:00

Waking up in Budapest at 3:31... I wonder why I ever went to sleep... or did I? We hopped in the cab, arrived at the airport, checked-in for the flight, boarded the plane, and hit the friendly skies all before sunrise... next stop is Finland: home of Teppo Numminen and the Lingonberries (sounds like a band name, eh?).

As we stepped off the plane in Turku, we were greeted by cool air with a crisp breeze, gloomy skies with a clean landscape. In fact everything in Turku was clean and well-kept. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to explore the city, as we had to hop on the train for Helsinki within the hour... so we just made a quick walk through the city centre on our way to the train station and we pushed on to Helsinki. The train was immaculate (cleanest train ever, even in second class where we sat). And, when the snack cart came through, I couldn't hold back... there was a retro-designed candy box calling my name. I learned that it a Finnish specialty called Salmiak: a strange variety of spicy salty licorice root... totally strange, but I'm a sucker for candy, especially that of exotic international distinction...

Anyway, Helsinki... We arrived in the late morning and had only the day to explore, but we got around quite a bit. Unfortunately I couldn't visit the Kiasma (Contemporary Art Museum), because it was Monday... but I found Helsinki pretty freaking cool anyway...

I went with Kent and Emily to check out Suomenlinna: a maritime fortress located off the coast. We took a ferry to the island and had a hike around the rocky grounds, checking out what it had to offer. After all, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so it had to be worth checking out. I think there would be a bit more to enjoy in the summer months, as many of the artist studios were closed and locals were hiding out during our cold and windy afternoon visit.

Back to the mainland... plenty of walking (with our packs all day). I dig it though; when I have my backpack on and I'm cruising around from place to place freely, I feel like a bonafide traveler; it's a part of me. This is the beautiful Lutheran Cathedral in the center square.

In addition to the sites of the city, I wanted to check out the famous Helsinki Design District... Of course, being that it was Monday, I missed out on a bunch of the galleries and regular exhibits, but I was able to check out a bit of the scene anyway. Helsinki was chosen to be the World Design Capital for 2012.

Eventually we met up with Mari, a new friend we made on CouchSurfing, and had the best supper of the tour! We went to an authentic Finnish joint called Juttutupa. I had the most incredible Scandinavian meatballs (in brandy sauce with potatoes and beet roots)... totally worth the entire trip to Finland! Mari was a great host. Not only did she find the hottest spot in town to dine; she put us up for the night and helped us navigate the local transport, etc. so we could find our way into town, around town, and back out again...

Finland was cool. I'll go back, maybe when I make my way into Russia... but for now, on to Estonia...

Transylvania, ROMANIA: Vampire Weekend.

2010-11-01T23:59:00.000-07:00

Wow. Never did I think I'd be spending Halloween at Dracula's Bran Castle on Halloween... but as life unfolds it's capricious plans for me, this is precisely how I celebrated Halloween 2010. Kent, Emily, and I headed out on a weekend roadtrip to kick off a ten-day trick of Eastern and Central Europe. Our destination was Brasov, but we took the long and winding road from Debrecen (Hungary) through Transylvania... partly to experience the true eastern (European) culture of Romania, but mostly because our Google Maps route took us on the fourteen-hour scenic route...

Regardless, I developed great anticipation of Brasov... not really knowing what to expect, I was stoked for the Halloween enigma... There is no doubt about it, the road to Brasov was a quintessential picture of Eastern Europe: donkey drawn buggies, shoddy roads, a myriad of hitchhikers, wild dogs, roadside chickens, and open-field fires... it was amazing! In order to understand the people, the culture, the politics, the commerce, the art, etc... I had to visit the countryside. We stopped in a town called Zalău for lunch... wow, talk about an what an eye-opener... (I'll have to expand on this later)

And, when we arrived in Brasov, I realized it was worth the journey. This central Romanian city is beautiful... from the landscape to the architecture to the people! The main square was quite a site... the Black Church was cool too...

Civilization seemed a bit more familiar in Brasov; we even came across some kids dressed in Halloween costumes...

In the evening we walked up to the base of Tampa Hill to have a look over the city... here are our ghosts creeping across the fields at dusk. Of course, I couldn't be satisfied with the spot I had, and needed to hike the hill... Emily and Kent went back into the town and I headed up Tampa Hill just as the sun disappeared... I suppose it was just me being me, but I had to exhaust myself running uphill for a while before I would feel accomplished. The view was blocked by trees all the way up, but I finally found a tree to sit in for a while and admire the stars and waning luna. It was worth it; it always is.

We stayed at a killer Bed & Breakfast joint called Pensiunea Hanna... and had the sweetest hosts ever.

We spent most of the next morning in the outskirts of Brasov, at Bran Castle. I learned a bit about Vlad Dracul (Vlad the Impaler), also known as Drăculea... about the legend, his resistance against the Ottoman Empire, and about his cruel and unusual punishments he served his enemies... it's actually quite disturbing, and it was a bit eerie roaming his 'haunt.'

On the way back into the city, we stopped off the main road to explore some woods... hiking in Brasov Poiana was a pretty good high, but I found myself thinking of Luna the whole time... Autumn hikes just aren't as cool without my pup by my side... no matter where I am.

I am a vampire... the only garlic-loving vampire in Transylvania.

Of all the street musicians we saw this week, there was one particularly notable group: Trubadurii din Transilvania... authentic Brasov troubadours...